Finding Friends, Finding Pants and Oh Yeah, The Beach

So, given we're living in a different country on a different continent, it follows that there are many things that we've had to adjust to, and one of the more pleasant ones has been the numerous public holidays here.  Which means everything shuts down.  No one works--everyone is focused on having fun and relaxing.  That's different too.

After a grueling full day of work last Monday, John had Tuesday off for May Day, which it turns out is a socialist worker's party holiday, hence the parade and the marching band we heard from our windows that morning--listening to parades from the comfort of our own home? Now, there's something else that's new for us.  We took our time getting ready, meaning it took me forever to sew up the rip in the pair of jeans I was going to wear.  I only brought two pairs of pants, because I'm cool with being a minimalist and John needed plenty of work clothes, but that all changes really quickly when you're air drying denim and the seam where you carry your Zach Morris cell phone finally gives out in your backup jeans.  Things over here might be different, but they're not cool-with-no-pants different...at least not in the city.  Which is, perhaps, why we were headed out to the beach.

Remember the family with girls the same age as ours who came out a year before us?  Steve and Megan invited us to go swimming at a beach called the Bundesbad on the Alte Donau (the Old Danube).  And I apologize if all these Danube's I've been throwing out there might start to get confusing.  Originally, the Danube, particularly in the area of Vienna was not one, large flowing river, but a web of large and smaller streams that changed courses over time.  Because the Danube is central to Vienna's existence, they've understandably taken measures to control the flow of the river: the Donau (the main river) the Neue Donau (the previously mentioned excavated canal) and the Alte Donau, a branch that has been dammed and is now only fed by natural ground water.  Looking at any map of Vienna, you'll see one large river with a thin strip of land running through it and a seemingly rogue branch to the East--this is where we were going to spend May Day.

Both the weather and the company could not have been more perfect.  The Bundesbad is one of many beaches and play areas on the river which one must pay to enter.  You wouldn't know it though, for how many people were out to soak up the sunshine. Steve, Meg and their girls met us at the U-Bahn station and walked with us down to the entrance.  Here, the beach was actually a nice meandering grassy park that bordered the river.  Instead of sand, there was a large gravel border along the water, complete with playground equipment both in and out of the water.  Meg brought enough bathing suits, towels, sunscreen, swim diapers, and sun hats to outfit all of us (Just Bailey sprang for the swim diaper though).  To say the girls went nuts would be a gross understatement.  We had anticipated spending a few hours at the beach before calling it a day to head home for naps.  Nope.  We were there ALL DAY. The girls were in love with the water, the rocks, the play ground, and most especially, their new friends.  It made my heart happy to see them so full of joy in playing together.

We really made a day of it; we ate lunch at the little stand conveniently located next to the water; the kids got to eat french fries and ice cream and bought bouncy balls out of the toy dispensers.  They washed off all that ketchup in the river and played hard all afternoon. Bailey eventually racked out on my lap while snacking on goldfish and then proceeded to mess up the sand pit when she regained consciousness.  It was truly an epic day--and not just for the kids.

Meg and I left the men-folk talking politics over two or six beers while we supervised the kiddos and I actually got to have some real, native-English-speaking Mama conversation.  The Walsh clan--all of them--are just good people. They were a blessing to us well before we got here and I know their family will prove indispensable in aiding our transition to this new little life of ours. I don't think we could've enjoyed the day more.

On our way out, the four girls ran ahead of the adults, holding hands, laughing and screaming.  Seeing other kids love your kids and bringing them joy, man...it doesn't get much better than that.

Audrey, in particular, was sad to see them go, but the silver lining was that we (meaning the girls) were all meeting up the next day at a mall...so I could buy pants. *facepalm* I hate shopping, really.  I can't remember the last time I actually tried on clothes in a fitting room instead of stalking tall girl sales online.  I loathe trying to find tall women's clothes amid the masses of taunting cute regular-size girl clothes.  ugh.  But, God sent me an angel--in the form of Megan, who took us to the mall and then took my kids to a play area while I was left in peace to shop and try on clothing.  If you aren't a woman or you haven't had small children, well, I just can't think of any metaphor to give it due credit, but not having to worry about Bailey pulling all the neatly hung clothes onto the floor, running into or running away with strangers, opening the curtain while I'm half naked, trying on clothes or screaming like a banshee...wow...to say it felt good to avoid all that would be a gross understatement.  Suddenly, this shopping thing didn't seem so bleak.  I figured out the sizing after a few minutes and actually walked away with some cute stuff to get me through the summer.  I met back up with the girls, we grabbed some lunch and hit up another store or two before heading to a PLAYGROUND  (In case you haven't clued in--this is the new hot word...and it takes a lot of patience to spell out)  where the girls ran wild for almost three hours.

We were in a little play area just outside the UN Center that had different sections representing different continents.  Australia had a kangaroo, Asia had an odd, Indian looking palace, Europe had a circus tent made of logs and the Americas got teepees.  I don't know who designed this place, but I was confused, slightly offended on behalf of native americans and confused some more.  Luckily the girls don't care much about geography and stereotypes at this age and they couldn't have been happier.  It was another reassuringly wonderful day.  We've found friends and that is another level of hope in my book. 

      

A Viennese Weekend Update

If you think we've been resting on our laurels and taking our time getting settled, you've got another thing coming.  This is Vienna!  And the weather has been gorgeous. 

We spent our first night in the apartment last Wednesday, orchestrated the move of the rest of our luggage Thursday, spent Friday making sure everything was well situated and then started our first weekend together in our new place with a bang. 

We are now only a few blocks away from the Naschmarkt, which is probably the largest, most popular open-air market in Vienna.  We knew it was going to be huge and we also knew it would be crazy busy on a Saturday, but we were still blown away.  I'm glad we got to see it first in all it's overwhelming glory.  We arrived around 9am and the walkways were already jam-packed full of bodies. We traversed the stalls selling more spices than I've ever seen in one place, exotic as well as local produce, cheeses, meats, bread, falafel, you name it--they've got it.  We walked up and down two full 'isles' full of stands and down another which is really just full of cafe's and restaurants touting anything from sushi or stir fry to traditional brunch. 

When we came to the flea market portion of the Market, we turned right back around.  I've seen some flea markets that, at a stretch, could be considered kitschy or quaint...this was more like the central hub to bring all the stuff they remove on hoarders.  I'll stick with the crap I already have, thankyouverymuch. 

Since then, the girls and I have gone back during the week when things are more manageable.  It's still a thriving market, but it's nice to let the girls wander up and down the isles, holding hands while I purchase our groceries for the next few days.  Audrey is a big fan of stopping to eat at the cafe's and I indulge her because she mirrors my own sentiment; there is nothing better than topping off a successful shopping trip by lounging in the sun with a melange and some croissants.

On Sunday morning we rode the train out as a family to the Danauinsel: a long, narrow island that sits between the Danube (Die Danau) and the Neue Danau (the 'New Danube', basically an excavated canal that is part of a system to protect the city from flooding) This island is a mecca for bike riders and walkers alike.  There are miles of trails and also plenty of restaurants to kick up your feet at and take a break. We strolled along the paths and took time to appreciate the views before crossing the floating pedestrian bridge to find a restaurant at which to take our ease.  It was a lovely Sunday. 

The girls were worn out from all the sun and activity of the morning and we headed back to the apartment to let them nap.  In what will hopefully become a Sunday ritual, after I put Bailey down to sleep, I headed out on my own to enjoy some time in this lovely city without the distraction that is so prevalent while caring for children.

Before I knew Vienna--before I knew we were moving here and well before I even understood the makeup of the city, I knew it was home to incredible coffee houses. Coffee and I, we go way back--and to come to a city that so embraces it in it's culture is almost euphoric for me.  Since realizing we were moving, I've steadily compiled a list of must-visit Viennese coffee houses.  They range from the over-the-top tourist packed Konditoreis to seedy, smoke-filled haunts that were previous muses for writers and artists.  To date, there are twenty on my list...and I'm sure that many more will come as I stumble upon them in my wanderings.

For my first outing, I decided to hit up the one on my list I have most anticipated: Der Demel.  The Demel fits most comfortably in the tourist-packed category, but it's with good reason.  The Demel started as an ice cream shop in 1786 and moved in 1857 from it's original location to the one it occupies today on Kohlmarkt.  Now, Der Demel is not really primarily a coffee house, but a chocolaterie and bakery with a reputation for excellence, but I'm keeping it on my list anyway--they serve coffee with their cakes--that's my minimum criteria.  The building itself is ornate in it's construction and decoration; it is comprised of many small rooms, housing hosts of tables to accommodate the masses that enter it's doors. 

I took the train to Stephansdom where I sacheted down Singerstrasse, past Burberry, Chanel and Louis Vuitton where The Demel sits right at home amongst these behemoths in the fashion industry. As you walk in the front door, you are greeted by a buffet (yes, they call it a buffet) of decadent cakes and pastries.  My mouth began watering just at the sight and I was soon directed up the stairs to the non smoking section.  On the way, I walked past the glass-walled kitchen where you can watch pastry chefs construct works of art out of sugar and creme.  I headed up the stairs and was seated in record time.  After deciding on an Anna Demel Kaffee (coffee with orange liquor, topped with whipped cream and sprinkles), I headed to the buffet in my section, where I chose the house cake: a chocolate confection, layered with orange-flavored chocolate creme and topped with thick ribbons of hazelnut chocolate.  Are you seeing the trend here?  Chocolate, coffee, chocolate, orange, more chocolate...and a little more coffee.

I sat in glorious solitude, doing three of the things I love best: drinking coffee, eating chocolate and people watching.  All three didn't disappoint; this is the height of Willian satisfaction. I took my time, soaking in the scene and savoring every bit of my delicious cake.  When I came back home, Bailey wasn't even awake yet.  My temporary foray into chocolate heaven hadn't even lasted two hours, but it was a much-needed break to be able to be in my own little Viennese world. I couldn't imagine a better way to top off a fantastic weekend.  

         

Our New Home

Wow. Where do I begin?  Well, we've had an interesting break from technology lately.  We wanted to get into our new place so quickly that we were more focused on things like linens than internet accessibility and when you see our place, you'll likely understand why.

We really fell in love with the fourth district: Wieden and we feel fortunate that we've found a place to live here.  We're one train stop away from the Staatsoper and two from Stephansdom.  My big, beautiful, overwhelming Vienna is so close, yet we are allowed to feel we are living in a smaller community.  The fourth district is home to quite a few foreign embassies, so it's not unusual to hear three or four languages other than German being spoken while out and about.  We have a tiny little supermarket just around the corner and are also near Wiedener Haupstrasse, which has a plethora of little shops in which I've already purchased a tea kettle (necessity!) and a toaster (because it turns out I burn toast if I try to make it in the oven) There is a brewery called Wieden Brau, complete with beer garden directly across the street from us and a lovely Asian restaurant called Chang just down the street.

This new apartment is on the first floor (that's actually the second, for you Yanks) and is twice the size of our temporary apartment we were living in when we first arrived.  It is also altbau (an old building), so the ceilings are very high and there are tall doorways in between all the rooms, making the space feel quite open.  When you walk into the entryway, you’re flanked by both bathrooms: one with a toilet (this is odd for Europe, because they are usually separate), sink, shower and washing machine.  The other we have deemed the girls' bathroom since it only has a tub and sink.  Directly to the right of the entry is our living room, complete with fabulous chandelier...and where we will soon have a sleeper sofa (for guests!  Hint! Hint!) and big comfy leather chair (for John).  When we first moved in, this is where Audrey plopped down on the sofa, like the Queen of Sheba, demanded a snack and proceeded to lounge while we figured out things like how to turn on the electricity. 

Leading off of the living room is our dining room with more shelf space than I'll know what to do with and an alpine hutch for linens; I can’t wait for our shipment to get here so I can actually fill all those shelves.

Leading off of the dining room is the master bedroom which is really quite huge; there is a massive (for Europe) bed with a gigantic bed frame/shelving/nightstand combo and a wardrobe on the opposing wall that is at least five times bigger than we need it to be.  I’ve been really good the past few years with keeping things in that department simple, so it’s going to be difficult looking at all that empty space and resisting the urge to fill it. John, by far, has more clothing than I do; he’s the one who’s got people to impress.  Plus, I like it when my man looks snazzy. 

 Moving on! 

So, all those rooms I just described line one side of the main hallway, and at the end of the hallway, next to our bedroom is the girls’ room...with a heart-shaped mirror. That apparently sold the place and it's how Audrey clarifies where we’re going: “To our apartment with the heart-shaped mirror”.  The girls also have a wardrobe that spans the length of an entire wall and probably could contain all the clothing they will wear from now until they graduate from college.  They have a tall bookshelf for their books and toys, Audrey has her own big, big-girl bed and there is still room for Bailey’s crib, hopefully a future reading nook and also a kid-sized craft table. When we first looked at the apartment, we could not pry the girls out of this room--they're comfortable there and that speaks louder than anything.   

Going back down the hallway on the opposite side is my kitchen…yes, mine.  It has a lot of counter space, especially since I don’t plan on having a microwave or any other electric appliances that tend to clutter things up.  Instead, I have fruit and coffee and tea on display and plenty of room to spread out while I’m making a mess in the kitchen.  And do I ever.  This is the first significant amount of time I’ve spent cooking with a gas range.  I used them in school and I understand why they are superior to glass/electric ranges, but I just burn everything…always have.  Now I have no choice but to learn and I’m actually happy about it.  It’ll probably still be a few months before I’ll buy a decent cut of meat, for fear of burning anything that nice, but for the moment I’m mastering the art of boiling water and burning bacon. 

Further back down the hallway is a storage room…and I use that term lightly because this could’ve probably been a third small bedroom, but the previous owner put up some massive shelves (because we need even more storage), which we’ve conveniently stowed all of our (EMPTY!!!) luggage on and I use the room to dry laundry.  If you’re in town for an extended visit, you’re more than welcome to use it as your bedroom.  We’re booking reservations. 

Now we’re back to the entryway and that’s our apartment.  We’re in love with it; we love the building, the neighborhood, the nearby parks and the close proximity of the Naschmarkt (more on that later). 

I wish I could’ve bottled the happiness we felt that first night here; hardly anything but our bedding was unpacked, we had half a bottle of crap red wine and an absolutely horrid dinner that I burned to a crisp…and it was delicious.  One of the best meals I’ve had in a long time: I’m with my little family in one of the most beautiful cities in the world, in an apartment that I don’t deserve. Our little world is just rosy.  God is good.  We are so grateful for our blessings.   

IKEA and Other Shenanigans

This is the nest we have created on the floor to dampen B's elephant stomping

We haven't been doing anything terribly noteworthy lately; our days have been spent trying to orchestrate the rental of our new apartment; our new landlady is just outstanding.  Even though the housing service has been very little help in this entire process (aside from providing the list of three apartments, they've basically been MIA).  We're hoping they'll be able to at least look over our contract before we sign it, as it is in German (because they were unavailable to provide an English copy) and the owner of our new apartment has even been generous enough to let us know that she'll give us the keys this week, regardless of any potential delays via the housing service.  I know I'm giving these people a bad rap, but I'm kind of bummed that their office has been in shambles while we're making our transition.

The Bear: she never stops

We are very excited about our new digs and have realized there are a few things needed (like, ahem, pillows and blankets) before we can move in.  So, I volunteered to fall on my sword and go to IKEA with the girls.  This means a mile walk to the U-Bahn, one station to the Staatsoper, hop on the IKEA bus, way-the-heck out of town...traverse IKEA (which is a battle unto itself), let the girls play on the God-sent playground outside the building while waiting for the bus, ride a half hour back with two sleepy girls and about a hundred pounds (I exaggerate...barely) of new furnishings, then walk another mile back home, schlepping the aforementioned goodies... and, finally, park your kids in front of a movie because your body is about to collapse in exhaustion. It was an experience.  And if you haven't watched the Valentine's Day (IKEA) episode of 30 Rock, you need to.  Now.  

I'll wait.  

In the mean time, here's a picture of Bailey eating lunch at IKEA...where they have *gasp* completely organic and inexpensive kids meals.  I love this place.  

mmm...noodles

So, anyway, other than prepping for this move, the girls and I have really just been chilling and finding playgrounds.  Most days it's important for me to be near the computer for a good chunk of time so I can communicate with John at work and our new landlady, but other than that, we're kind of in a holding pattern.  

Audrey micro-managing on the playground

The girls have been doing fantastic through this all; their bodies are really starting to adapt to our new time zone and schedules.  They're waking up at a normal time, eating well, playing hard and sleeping through the night without issue.  Of course, we still have some bumps in the road; we're trying to keep them quite while we're in our temporary apartment, so they're watching more movies than usual--that always leads to some gems as far as slap-happy behavior goes, but for the most part, they're thriving.  

She's terrified and so proud of herself

When I left the house yesterday I left the stroller home and Audrey hoofed it just as far as I did--she's getting stronger and I'm so proud of her.  She's also making great leaps and bounds on the playground; before we left Kennewick, it usually took her a good half hour to warm up to going down even a kiddie slide...and forget ladders, if there weren't stairs, she wasn't going anywhere.  But here, she's been a little more daring; she climbed onto this swinging bridge and walked the whole thing with very little assistance (it's really steep for a kid there at the end) and she has started climbing ladders!  Like, six-rung ladders--this is a big deal. Overall, I've just noticed the girls are much more eager to take chances and push themselves.  I don't know whether to attribute that to the new environment, the play structures themselves, or the kids they see boldly playing on them.  Either way, we're keeping it up.       

This girl fears no ladder

And if you're wondering about Bailey, well, she's just fine.  She's my peewee pirate, so she's having a ball any time we get out of the house.  She loves trains, buses, playgrounds and horse-drawn carriages.  She gets very mad when we enter a grocery store (those are her least favorite 'adventures') and has absolutely no concept of this "quiet" thing we are trying to convey to her while we're in our apartment or the vast echoing halls of our temporary building.  I think she's going to love our new digs, since we've been really keeping a tight reign on her lately.  Keeping a low profile simply isn't the Bailey way.  

  

Happy Belvedere, Happy Bellies

Today was a lazy day. No apartment viewing, no work, and miracle of all miracles: the girls slept in. I got almost 11 hours of sleep. I have no idea how long it will take until I can stay up past 8pm without feeling like a zombie, but I'm making progress.

Oberes Belvedere

This morning after a big breakfast, we headed out of the house to finally see what this Schloß Belvedere is all about. I know I should have my sights set on Schönbrunn, but secretly this pair of palaces has fascinated me for quite a while. The two palaces that make up Schloß Belvedere, separated by a formal garden, were built as a summer palace for prince Eugene of Savoy; the great military commander given credit for defeating the Ottomans (intent on invading Vienna) in 1697. 

You may be wondering, as I had, how one man (great military strategist though he may be) could possibly require two palaces...for his summer residence no less. Well, the Oberes (upper) Belvedere, which is much grander in its decor was mainly used for entertaining; soirees and the like. While the Unteres Belvedere was where the prince's chambers were located. 

Audrey told me she and Bailey were racing in this photo

We arrived at the side gate of the Oberes Belvedere and were stunned as we came around the corner to view the Upper Belvedere in all it's glory. One can't help but wonder what it would've felt like to arrive at a grand ball here when it was in all it's glory. We walked around to the formal gardens where Audrey and Bailey went nuts. They're used to the forced marching we make them do when we're walking near streets, but this was the first place (sans play equipment) that we had taken them where they could run wild. Audrey loves--as in audibly gasps--seeing these grand structures. There is no doubt in my mind that she fully appreciates the beauty around us. She was born for this city.  Even Bailey, though she has had more trouble adjusting to the new environment, knows that these breathtaking things are truly awesome. The garden is tiered in three different sections with an impressive stair fountain near the center. We let the girls run amok, discovering all the garden's nooks and crannies until the cloudy skies threatened to open up. We booked it through an archway in the Lower Belvedere and found a pub called Salm Bräu around the corner where we decided to dodge the rain for a bit. 

At Salm Bräu

Schnitzel!!

Now, I might have originally jumped right into navigating the city on my own when we got here and I hit the ground running figuring out my little domestic scene, but one thing I've been uncharacteristically dragging my feet on is our first real Austrian dining experience. The last time I sat down in a German-speaking eating establishment was over ten years ago, and I can tell you I did not have two young children with me. Going out to eat with kids is seldom a relaxing experience when I'm in my element, much less when I'm struggling to understand a different language and adapt to a different culture's etiquette. Regardless, it was time. We walked in and realized that this place was no quaint pub, it was a maze of different leveled sitting areas that went well underground. We were seated in what I suspect was the furthest reaches, in a sealed no smoking section. Luckily, the menus on the table were English and our waitress was very accommodating. I'd consider eating at a huge establishment adjoining a major tourist attraction a baby step, but it was still deliciously authentic. Salm Bräu brews their own beer; we had a view of some of the beer vats from our table. John and I both tried their märzen ale (an amber) and oh, was that worth it alone. To eat, John had the Wiener schnitzel, which was tender and light. I had a skillet meal called Kloster Pfandl...which came in an actual skillet. It was a delightful mix of mushrooms and beef, accompanied by noodles and sour cream. Delicious, but there was no way I could've eaten it all. The girls actually did really well with some rolls and wurst and overall were well behaved. It took a little work on our part to maintain their happy status, but there were other kids in our section having meltdowns while John and I sat there thanking God it wasn't us. We just really have no desire to be THOSE Americans, even though I'm sure it'll happen at some point, we dodged a bullet this time and got some happy bellies out of it. 

You wish you could look this cool

As we exited the pub, it was still raining and I got to model my umbrella hat for John since he wasn't wearing the appropriate attire to push the stroller hands-free while remaining out of the rain. It's hokey and decidedly unclassy, but it works. I'm officially owning it. 

Once we got home, it was nap time!  What are lazy Sundays for, after all?  I've got no plans to cook dinner after that meal. Tomorrow will be back to business, but it was nice to have a reprieve from the housing madness for the day.

Finding a Winner

Most of us got to sleep in a bit after our late night out Friday. Such party animals we are, staying up until 10pm! But I digress. Today we had two more apartments to see and even though I really liked the place we saw yesterday, I was still keeping my options open; Vienna has a lot of different types of fabulous to offer.

The first place we were off to was back in the first district only a block away from the Staatsoper and very close to the U-Bahn line John takes to work. The building was slightly underwhelming and the apartment was liveable, but in no way was I over the moon for it. Again, the owner was just incredibly gracious and personable. 

What's that? Just holding up this balcony...NBD.

We had an hour in between our appointments, so we bummed around downtown until it was time to hop on the U-Bahn back to the 4th district.  This second apartment is only a few blocks away from the same station we have been walking nearly a mile to every day since we got here. The street is quiet, with a classy looking pub just across from the apartment building. There may not be any fantastic embellishments on the door, but there are some very virile half naked men performing feats of strength as decor on the facade. So, it's got that going for it. The owner of this apartment is Italian, very straight forward and accommodating.

 The first thing I noticed about this apartment was light; the ceilings are very high and there are a lot of windows. This place has two large bedrooms, a living room and a moderate sized dining room across from the kitchen. I already knew that my standards for American kitchens weren't even going to hold a candle to the one I'd have here, but this was the first kitchen I can honestly say I liked. It has a new gas range and oven and a big perk over here: an actual freezer--nowhere near the size I'm used to, but it'll fit much more than a a few ice cube trays. While we were wandering around the place, the girls were already making themselves at home in what would be their room.  It was a pretty big win. 

Hopefully, the new street on which we'll live

After viewing the apartment, we walked around the neighborhood to get a feel for what was nearby and we were pleasantly surprised to find we are already quite familiar with the surrounds, as it's within our little footprint we've created from our temporary apartment. We ended up stopping to sit in a little sunny alcove to enjoy a picnic lunch before strolling home. It was a gorgeous environment to discuss the pros and cons of our top two apartments. 

In the end, we decided that the apartment in Wieden would require much less work to make it feel like our home and it's close enough to downtown that we're only a stop away from my beloved Vienna, so we've put in an offer. That doesn't mean we'll necessarily get it, but we're getting this ball rolling regardless. 

This isn't actually the door, but the girls were being cute

Even though I spent nearly 24 hours panicking about our housing situation, I'm really happy with our options and the choices we've made so far. And you remember that list of three apartments the housing service sent us?  The one that set me into a panic? The apartment we hope to rent was the only one on that list I didn't immediately throw out. I get it, God.  I'm not in control--you've got it covered. 

Let the Househunting Begin

Oh, how every day is an adventure. I spent yesterday dealing with such a bleak outlook on our future (and current!) housing situation. There was sunshine, but I wasn't out in it. There was hope, but I was having a hard time grasping it. Thank you God, for each new morning. This one brought with it a cavalier attitude. My landlady informed me that the guy downstairs is a recurring problem--it's not just us. We had lines on a few apartments to look at and the promise of  a revised list from the housing service. Life again was seeming sweet. It's amazing how quickly I can loose sight of that.  I definitely lost the battle yesterday.

So, after eating breakfast and letting the girls watch Dora (out of respect for the gent below) we headed out to view the first apartment for the day. It's important to understand before I launch into our house hunting adventures that Vienna is broken up into twenty three districts (bezirks).  The first is the city center and the 2nd-10th curve around the city center in a clockwise direction.  The ring outside of that is comprised of the 11th-20th, with 21 & 22 across the Danube (close to John's work) and the 23rd is awkwardly tacked on to the southwest of the city.  We are currently staying in the 4th district, Wieden and are looking at apartments in the first ten districts, so we'll have easy access to the overwhelming amount of things to see near the city center.  

photo credit

This first apartment we were off to see was located in the district adjoining ours--district 5: Margareten, so we decided to make a true adventure of it and took the nearly two mile walk on foot. We were discussing our chosen route and commenting on how nice the neighborhood is; there is a park around the corner from this apartment, a supermarket and a nearby U-Bahn station. This was looking good!  

Then we turned the corner. 

And there was an auto repair place. But no bother--they have to operate somewhere in the city. We walked down the street trying to figure out which door went to the apartment. All the names on the placards out front didn't match up with what we were looking for. So, I called the owner. She directed us to the 'garage looking' entrance directly across from the Auto shop. What now? She buzzed us in and told us to come to the fifth floor. As I pushed the button for the elevator and opened the door, an eardrum-bursting loud grinding sound began echoing through the dank hall and suddenly something glass burst onto the floor of the elevator. 

So, stairs it was...

 

The owner was a really nice woman who had previously worked at the UN. She welcomed us into her home-- the same one she was trying to rent, chalk full of her own possessions and loads of gigantic furniture that I couldn't imagine being moved in a month, much less a week.  She very graciously plopped us all down on sofas in her living room and offered us drinks.  This is where I started wishing the housing service had access to pictures. The place was straight-up out of the question. We toured the apartment and chatted with the owners, but there was no way we were even considering it. 

Lookee what I found, Barb!

We chalked it up to experience and headed back to the U-Bahn. John had to get some things done at work and I needed to shrug off the heebie jeebies from our first apartment viewing. So when we got to Stephansplatz (in the first district, if you're following along), the girls and I hopped off the train. There's no cure in the world like the feel of downtown Vienna. As I walked and soaked up the spirit in the streets, my mood began to soar. This is Vienna. The gorgeous intricate buildings, churches, fountains and statues at every turn. Today was beautiful and the streets were full. We walked around for a bit before stopping for a second-breakfast sandwich and then set out to locate the next apartment we would be looking at in the afternoon. Most of the streets in the area of this apartment are pedestrian walkways...which seem to loosely accept cars when necessary. The street this apartment is on is smaller than the rest and not as busy with foot traffic. The shops are mostly upscale boutiques and there are several cafe's with outdoor seating. 

These lion heads were a serious item on our list for a new place

The first thing I noticed was that this place has a Forrest green door with lion head door knockers. If the building hadn't also been gorgeous, that probably would've sold me right there. I was excited, but we still had plenty of time to waste before our appointment, so we strolled some more in an effort to check out the neighborhood and by the time I was hungry enough to eat again I was near a hot dog stand. By this time the girls had fallen asleep, so I got to eat in silence and soaked up the atmosphere. I decided to move closer to the U-Bahn station John would be meeting us at and ended up lounging in front of the Vienna State Opera House for quite a while. There was pigeon watching and people watching galore. Surprisingly, I find both of those activities equally entertaining. It was glorious. This is my kind of town. 

Quiet and quaint...and steps away from the hubbub of the city

We had just enough time after meeting up with John to grab another hot dog (for him...I'm not that gluttonous) and some ice cream for the girls. We met up with the owner of this second apartment and were absolutely charmed. We walked through the lion head doors and up the stairs to the apartment on the third floor. This building may be right in the center of Vienna, but it forms a square with a small courtyard in the center. The walls are unbelievably thick so it is easy to think you are secluded within this space. The apartment had two bedrooms, a sizable living room with a more formal dining area, a large bathroom,a small kitchen open to an informal breakfast nook...and probably the best part: a balcony spanning the length of one side of the courtyard on which I could picture morning coffee and potted herbs. The building is altbau, which means "old building", but has been fairly recently renovated. It's altbau status lends it a charming old world feel and the furniture in place is also more old fashioned. There are a few pieces that would have to go (there is an overarching floral pattern going on I would probably work on dampening), but the owner was very open to moving and removing anything in the place. He also at one point expressed how important it is for kids to have room to run (thank you God!) and this place has it.

Sleeping outside the Albertina & Staatsoper

If you can't tell, I loved the apartment. And it's not just because of the stark contrast between the two we've seen so far. We have two more appointments tomorrow to see a place about a mile from where we are now (also in Wieden) and another across the street from the Vienna State Opera House (1st District), so we'll see if I can be so easily swayed by those as well.

After hoofing it home and letting the girls cool their heels for about an hour, we all headed out on our first night out.  One of John's coworkers (whom he also knew from the Lab) was hosting a get-together for a bunch of ex-pats, old and new.  It was so nice to be in a room full of English speakers and we finally got to meet the family with girls the same age as ours I referenced earlier as our guinea pigs.  They have been here a little over a year and I'm excited that the girls have some play mates their age who speak their language. 

 After our wonderful evening, we trekked back home at an ungodly (to our adjusting bodies) hour.  We made it home around 10pm. (Consider that I've been going to sleep near 8 every night.)  All in all, I guesstimated I walked at least ten miles today.  My body is sore, but it is getting stronger.  Look out, Dad, I might actually be up for some mountain climbing soon!