Happy Belvedere, Happy Bellies

Today was a lazy day. No apartment viewing, no work, and miracle of all miracles: the girls slept in. I got almost 11 hours of sleep. I have no idea how long it will take until I can stay up past 8pm without feeling like a zombie, but I'm making progress.

Oberes Belvedere

This morning after a big breakfast, we headed out of the house to finally see what this Schloß Belvedere is all about. I know I should have my sights set on Schönbrunn, but secretly this pair of palaces has fascinated me for quite a while. The two palaces that make up Schloß Belvedere, separated by a formal garden, were built as a summer palace for prince Eugene of Savoy; the great military commander given credit for defeating the Ottomans (intent on invading Vienna) in 1697. 

You may be wondering, as I had, how one man (great military strategist though he may be) could possibly require two palaces...for his summer residence no less. Well, the Oberes (upper) Belvedere, which is much grander in its decor was mainly used for entertaining; soirees and the like. While the Unteres Belvedere was where the prince's chambers were located. 

Audrey told me she and Bailey were racing in this photo

We arrived at the side gate of the Oberes Belvedere and were stunned as we came around the corner to view the Upper Belvedere in all it's glory. One can't help but wonder what it would've felt like to arrive at a grand ball here when it was in all it's glory. We walked around to the formal gardens where Audrey and Bailey went nuts. They're used to the forced marching we make them do when we're walking near streets, but this was the first place (sans play equipment) that we had taken them where they could run wild. Audrey loves--as in audibly gasps--seeing these grand structures. There is no doubt in my mind that she fully appreciates the beauty around us. She was born for this city.  Even Bailey, though she has had more trouble adjusting to the new environment, knows that these breathtaking things are truly awesome. The garden is tiered in three different sections with an impressive stair fountain near the center. We let the girls run amok, discovering all the garden's nooks and crannies until the cloudy skies threatened to open up. We booked it through an archway in the Lower Belvedere and found a pub called Salm Bräu around the corner where we decided to dodge the rain for a bit. 

At Salm Bräu

Schnitzel!!

Now, I might have originally jumped right into navigating the city on my own when we got here and I hit the ground running figuring out my little domestic scene, but one thing I've been uncharacteristically dragging my feet on is our first real Austrian dining experience. The last time I sat down in a German-speaking eating establishment was over ten years ago, and I can tell you I did not have two young children with me. Going out to eat with kids is seldom a relaxing experience when I'm in my element, much less when I'm struggling to understand a different language and adapt to a different culture's etiquette. Regardless, it was time. We walked in and realized that this place was no quaint pub, it was a maze of different leveled sitting areas that went well underground. We were seated in what I suspect was the furthest reaches, in a sealed no smoking section. Luckily, the menus on the table were English and our waitress was very accommodating. I'd consider eating at a huge establishment adjoining a major tourist attraction a baby step, but it was still deliciously authentic. Salm Bräu brews their own beer; we had a view of some of the beer vats from our table. John and I both tried their märzen ale (an amber) and oh, was that worth it alone. To eat, John had the Wiener schnitzel, which was tender and light. I had a skillet meal called Kloster Pfandl...which came in an actual skillet. It was a delightful mix of mushrooms and beef, accompanied by noodles and sour cream. Delicious, but there was no way I could've eaten it all. The girls actually did really well with some rolls and wurst and overall were well behaved. It took a little work on our part to maintain their happy status, but there were other kids in our section having meltdowns while John and I sat there thanking God it wasn't us. We just really have no desire to be THOSE Americans, even though I'm sure it'll happen at some point, we dodged a bullet this time and got some happy bellies out of it. 

You wish you could look this cool

As we exited the pub, it was still raining and I got to model my umbrella hat for John since he wasn't wearing the appropriate attire to push the stroller hands-free while remaining out of the rain. It's hokey and decidedly unclassy, but it works. I'm officially owning it. 

Once we got home, it was nap time!  What are lazy Sundays for, after all?  I've got no plans to cook dinner after that meal. Tomorrow will be back to business, but it was nice to have a reprieve from the housing madness for the day.