A Viennese Weekend Update

If you think we've been resting on our laurels and taking our time getting settled, you've got another thing coming.  This is Vienna!  And the weather has been gorgeous. 

We spent our first night in the apartment last Wednesday, orchestrated the move of the rest of our luggage Thursday, spent Friday making sure everything was well situated and then started our first weekend together in our new place with a bang. 

We are now only a few blocks away from the Naschmarkt, which is probably the largest, most popular open-air market in Vienna.  We knew it was going to be huge and we also knew it would be crazy busy on a Saturday, but we were still blown away.  I'm glad we got to see it first in all it's overwhelming glory.  We arrived around 9am and the walkways were already jam-packed full of bodies. We traversed the stalls selling more spices than I've ever seen in one place, exotic as well as local produce, cheeses, meats, bread, falafel, you name it--they've got it.  We walked up and down two full 'isles' full of stands and down another which is really just full of cafe's and restaurants touting anything from sushi or stir fry to traditional brunch. 

When we came to the flea market portion of the Market, we turned right back around.  I've seen some flea markets that, at a stretch, could be considered kitschy or quaint...this was more like the central hub to bring all the stuff they remove on hoarders.  I'll stick with the crap I already have, thankyouverymuch. 

Since then, the girls and I have gone back during the week when things are more manageable.  It's still a thriving market, but it's nice to let the girls wander up and down the isles, holding hands while I purchase our groceries for the next few days.  Audrey is a big fan of stopping to eat at the cafe's and I indulge her because she mirrors my own sentiment; there is nothing better than topping off a successful shopping trip by lounging in the sun with a melange and some croissants.

On Sunday morning we rode the train out as a family to the Danauinsel: a long, narrow island that sits between the Danube (Die Danau) and the Neue Danau (the 'New Danube', basically an excavated canal that is part of a system to protect the city from flooding) This island is a mecca for bike riders and walkers alike.  There are miles of trails and also plenty of restaurants to kick up your feet at and take a break. We strolled along the paths and took time to appreciate the views before crossing the floating pedestrian bridge to find a restaurant at which to take our ease.  It was a lovely Sunday. 

The girls were worn out from all the sun and activity of the morning and we headed back to the apartment to let them nap.  In what will hopefully become a Sunday ritual, after I put Bailey down to sleep, I headed out on my own to enjoy some time in this lovely city without the distraction that is so prevalent while caring for children.

Before I knew Vienna--before I knew we were moving here and well before I even understood the makeup of the city, I knew it was home to incredible coffee houses. Coffee and I, we go way back--and to come to a city that so embraces it in it's culture is almost euphoric for me.  Since realizing we were moving, I've steadily compiled a list of must-visit Viennese coffee houses.  They range from the over-the-top tourist packed Konditoreis to seedy, smoke-filled haunts that were previous muses for writers and artists.  To date, there are twenty on my list...and I'm sure that many more will come as I stumble upon them in my wanderings.

For my first outing, I decided to hit up the one on my list I have most anticipated: Der Demel.  The Demel fits most comfortably in the tourist-packed category, but it's with good reason.  The Demel started as an ice cream shop in 1786 and moved in 1857 from it's original location to the one it occupies today on Kohlmarkt.  Now, Der Demel is not really primarily a coffee house, but a chocolaterie and bakery with a reputation for excellence, but I'm keeping it on my list anyway--they serve coffee with their cakes--that's my minimum criteria.  The building itself is ornate in it's construction and decoration; it is comprised of many small rooms, housing hosts of tables to accommodate the masses that enter it's doors. 

I took the train to Stephansdom where I sacheted down Singerstrasse, past Burberry, Chanel and Louis Vuitton where The Demel sits right at home amongst these behemoths in the fashion industry. As you walk in the front door, you are greeted by a buffet (yes, they call it a buffet) of decadent cakes and pastries.  My mouth began watering just at the sight and I was soon directed up the stairs to the non smoking section.  On the way, I walked past the glass-walled kitchen where you can watch pastry chefs construct works of art out of sugar and creme.  I headed up the stairs and was seated in record time.  After deciding on an Anna Demel Kaffee (coffee with orange liquor, topped with whipped cream and sprinkles), I headed to the buffet in my section, where I chose the house cake: a chocolate confection, layered with orange-flavored chocolate creme and topped with thick ribbons of hazelnut chocolate.  Are you seeing the trend here?  Chocolate, coffee, chocolate, orange, more chocolate...and a little more coffee.

I sat in glorious solitude, doing three of the things I love best: drinking coffee, eating chocolate and people watching.  All three didn't disappoint; this is the height of Willian satisfaction. I took my time, soaking in the scene and savoring every bit of my delicious cake.  When I came back home, Bailey wasn't even awake yet.  My temporary foray into chocolate heaven hadn't even lasted two hours, but it was a much-needed break to be able to be in my own little Viennese world. I couldn't imagine a better way to top off a fantastic weekend.