My Birthday at the Hofburg

So, I had a Birthday this week.  I'm not big on them...but not for the usual reasons.  I don't have any irrational fears about aging and I don't get my hopes up that this one day a year will be the greatest ever--that I have to do something extraordinary to validate my own birth.  I don't hope that everyone of my acquaintance will stop and take note of me and give me well wishes.  While I am always appreciative of the gifts and attention people give me, I also find it awkward and embarrassing. So, I was very happy to be celebrating in a country where no one but my immediate family is aware that I'm a June baby. For me, taking one day a year to do something special is nice, but, especially with the way we've been living lately, every day is special.  And I mean that.  So, I was kind of at a loss for what to do on my birthday...since most any day we've had so far in Vienna would've passed muster in my book.

My little Viennese Lady

One thing I knew for sure was that we were going to The Demel for breakfast.  We walked all the way from our apartment down through the Hofburg Palace grounds to the grand pastry shop that also makes a hell of a plate of scrambled eggs.  The girls sipped hot chocolate with extra whipped cream and we nearly forgot our little Viennese Audrey girl was there, because we were so preoccupied with keeping Bailey from knocking our table/drinks/food/anything not bolted to the floor over. A friend of ours brought up the phrase 'bull in a china shop' in reference to this child's particular temperament and it's fitting.  We had a wonderful breakfast, but it took some work!

After we finished breakfast and Bailey helped me pick out a few sweets from the buffet , we wandered down towards Stephansdom, where we lingered a bit before John took the girls back to the 5th district to play in the park so I could have some time on my own to do whatever I wanted.  I intended to head right to the Hofburg palace to check out some museums that have been on my list for a while, but as I strode past Peterskirche, I realized for as many times as I've walked by, I've never stepped foot inside.

So I did.  Because it was my birthday.

High Alter in Peterskirche

And I was so thankful, because this place is worthy of some ooh-ing and ahh-ing.  Not only is the Peterskirche a beautiful example of Baroque architecture, but I loved how silently and reverently it was viewed by everyone entering it's doors.  In contrast to the prominent Stephansdom, which sees a much greater number of tourists through it's doors and can feel even a bit rowdy for a cathedral at times, I was amazed at how the Peterskirche encourages visitors not only to appreciate the incredible detail of the church, but more so to appreciate that it is still a functioning house of God.  Very cool. 

I lingered in the pews for a long time and viewed the two almost disturbing shrines to martyrs that are displayed near the front of the church before heading out on my main errand for the day: a trip to the Hofburg Palace to view the Palace's silver collection, the Sisi Museum and the Kaiser apartments.  That's three museums/tours in one.  Definitely something I wanted to see and also something the girls would never even make it half way through on a good day.  As it was, I barely survived.

I know viewing a silver collection sounds like a total bore (and I'm sure John would agree with you), but I spent an inordinate amount of time looking at place settings, linens, menu plans and the rest of the kitchen accoutrement that was (and some that still is) used for formal and informal dining for the royal family and state functions.   It was right up my alley.  It might also have something to do with how much I miss all of the beloved kitchen supplies I've been waiting for in our shipment. (*cough* pottery withdrawal *cough*)  So, I took some time to drool over the cutlery and serving dishes. 

Empress Sisi (image credit)

Next up on my tour was the SiSi museum; devoted to the Empress Elisabeth, wife of Franz Josef I.  Before going through these exhibits, I knew very little of the Empress and afterwards, I had learned probably more that I should about anyone.  It was an overwhelming amount of information, which was presented very well, but I wasn't crazy about the subject matter.  Sisi, as she was called from the time she was a child, was brought up in the country before capturing the heart of Emperor Franz Josef at the age of 15.  They were married and she was forced into the public eye--something that apparently made the woman go a bit whack-a-doodle, for lack of a better phrase.  She was melancholy, depressed, obsessed with her health and beauty and even engaged in extreme behaviors in an effort to validate her existence.  Not my favorite set of qualities in a woman.  Yet somehow, after her murder at the age of 60, the story of her life was immortalized, sensationalized and exploited for money.  More activities that are in no way attractive to me.

In the end, I was glad to have learned more about her, if only to find I felt sorry for her and the crap life she chose.  I also felt like I learned more about Franz Josef, a man who despite all his wife's faults and their incredible differences in personality still loved her deeply when she died.  John and I are now on a search for more insights into the life of Franz Josef I--a pretty fantastic man and Emperor in any book. 

Shaking off the lingering heebie jeebies of Sisi, I moved into the Kaiser apartments, which Franz Josef I, Empress Sisi and (obviously) many others have inhabited.  The rooms open for viewing were set up to reflect how they would have been when Franz Josef I was in power and I really enjoyed seeing the differences between his and Sisi's rooms.  It was apparent that Franz Josef was a hard-working, devoted, spartan man.  As much as it was obvious that Sisi had far too much time on her hands.  (ankle length or not, NO ONE needs three hours a day to dress their hair)

By the time I was done with my tour, I had spent nearly two hours in the Hofburg palace stuffing my brain with information I have no desire to regurgitate here.  You'll just have to come visit and see yourself.  I was exhausted--mentally and physically.  It might sound weird, since I do chase around two crazy kids all day, but my body was totally unaccustomed to standing/walking in the same position for that long.  In a normal day, I walk at least three miles if not many more.  While I'm walking I'm also carrying heavy bags and 35-pound children (sometimes all at the same time).  I walk, run, skip, sit, stand, crouch, sprint for dear life and lunge to save the rug rats from certain disaster.  ALL. DAY. So, why was my body suddenly screaming when I was allowed to remain upright wandering about for hours?  Who knows, but I even got some new knee pain out of it.

It was worth it.  Touring the Hofburg has been on my list for a long time.

Mmmm...Passion fruit goodness!

When I got back home, the girls were contentedly watching their FAVORITE movie at the moment: Mulan (I can tell you, the soundtrack is lacking) and John had a big grin on his face for having managed to traverse the streets and parks of the city with the girls all on his own.  I ordered some delivery sushi (I know, right?! Best. Idea. Ever.) and chilled with my sweet little fam all afternoon.  For dessert after dinner, the girls helped John put candles on the cakes we had gotten from The Demel and sang to me...we only had to re-light the candles once because Audrey claimed she hadn't helped enough on the first try.

And that was totally fine because I didn't even bother wishing on my candles this year.

I've already got everything I'll ever need.

God is so Good.  It might as well be my birthday every day.