Day Four: Checking off the List

This morning we woke to an overcast sky; it's a miracle we've come this far with such beautiful weather. Emily had a full day at her conference, so after breakfast, mom and I made plans to find out if we could make it to Fyvie on the bus to visit a nearby caslte. The public transportation in Scotland, for the most part, is pretty amazing, but the fares vary incredibly--anywhere from one to ninety pounds depending on the combination of your destination and the way the wind's blowing. We were hoping the fares to nearby Fyvie would be reasonable, even at the bus station, but it was through the roof, so we contented ourselves with making a list of places and things we hadn't had the chance to do yet and set out to check off our list.

First off was a pub we had heard great things about. Now, we weren't attempting to have a pint for second breakfast, it was purely a trip to reconnoiter so we could make our way back in the evening. Tea is more appropriate for that time of day anyway, so we made our way to a quaint shop that sold bulk tea (very similar to my favorite tea shop back home) and took in the wonderful aromas.

In our ramblings, we also happened upon St. Mary's Cathedral. Really, you can't throw a stone in Aberdeen without hitting an old church...and I mean that literally. There are so many majestic church spires filling the sky that it's nothing to take note of. So much that we hadn't even set foot in one yet. There are just too many to chose from--enough that a good number of them actually have been converted into restaurants, stores and pubs. Anyway, since we were walking by and the doors were open, we popped our heads inside. I lit a candle for the girls, which I've never done before, and even though I'm not catholic, I'm sure God still heard me.

Most of the museums in the city have free admission, so we stopped in the Aberdeen Art Gallery and marveled (read: snickered behind our hands) at the modern art on display. Even better were the discriptions of each work by the artists. My personal favorite was a large, grotesque photo of someone's fat (and I mean, loose-skin-fat) belly smooshed against plexiglass. Now, I find nothing funny about fat people...or people who previously were fat and now have skin rolls. I don't even take issue with seeing pictures of it, but this... This was art! I think they might have been desparate to fill the gallery. Either way...it was a check. What's up with the Art Gallery? Check, check.

We laughed our way down to The Ambercrombie Pub for a bite to eat...and...I'm sure you've already guessed: a pint. (When in Rome!) The pubs here make a habit of serving each individual beer in a glass bearing it's name; Mom's drink of choice is Guinness on tap and the glasses here are beautiful. The whole time we've been here, Mom has been wondering if any pubs might consider selling one to her, so she finally broke down and asked. The manager told her no, they couldn't sell one...but she could have one for free. And, by the way, most people just steal them, so thanks for asking. Best. souvenir. ever.



We left the Ambercrombie on a high and promptly checked off another item on our list by jumping on a random double-decker bus. We rode on top in the very front seat for about two blocks before hopping back off...since we had no idea where that bus was going. Luckily, it put us down right in front of our favorite little shop. This place has an eclectic mix of furnishings, decor, plush toys...and leather purses that make you want to rub your face on the soft exterior and stick your head in them just to breath in the heady aroma. I promise we didn't do either of those things, but we've popped in to visit 'our handbags' so often we're worried the owners might think we're casing the joint.

In any case, we skipped out before they could call the Bobby's and went back to the hotel for some rest before our evenings activities (like how I make it sound like we're sooo busy while on vacation? Positively swamped! I don't know how we get it all done!) I have an annoying habit of staying up late at night, waking up early in the morning and then napping in the afternoon while Mom and Emily iron out travel and eating plans. Today was no different. I happen to really enjoy waking up to find out what activities are in store for me.

We decided (see how I used 'we' there?) to hit up an Indian restaurant called The Jewel In The Crown. It was a reccommendation from a friend of a friend of Emily's and it was a good thing it was Mom's first curry experience, because the food and service were both incredible. I'm all for eating local food as part of the travel experience and I would actually consider this local fare. It was totally authentic and cooked to order. The staff was genuinely helpful and hospitable. If you're ever in this neck of the woods, I recommend looking it up.

The only downside to our incredible meal was how much food there was and the lack of refrigeration in our hotel room. We were debating what to do with our leftovers when a homeless man asked Emily if she had any spare change. He ended up with a phenomenal curry dinner instead. Feed the homeless. Check!

Since we had water (gasp!) with our dinner at The Jewel, and the night was still young, we popped into The Howff, the pub we had investigated earler this morning. I think this might be my favorite, most authentic pub yet. The bartenders and patrons were all local and since it's a hole in the wall and downstairs on a busy, crowded street, this came as no surprise. I have a habit of getting a pint of whatever's on cask; I haven't had the same beer twice and I've also not been disapointed. The seating here was charming with combinations of tables and cozy chairs. We opted to sit in an alcove with two couches; it was like drinking a pint at home. I am honest when I say I wish you all were here. I'd love to have a pint with you. Instead, it appears I'm attempting to drink enough to make up for your absence. Never let it be said that I was one to back down from a challenge.

On our way home, we were fortunate to catch another double-decker bus, so Emily got to have the experience too. We were so engrossed in how entertaining it is to be up high enough to see in people's second story windows that we got off of the bus too early. Way too early. So early, we had to take a potty break. And guess where that was? McDonalds. Potty break at McDonald's in Scotland? Check!

We've obviously been having too much fun. Emily is taking the day off from her conference tomorrow and we've purchased tickets on the train to Inverness, home of the Loch Ness Monster. This is another 'check' in itself, but we're hoping to be able to do some hiking and exploring of the countryside while we're there. Tea and ale will likely be involved as well, but hopefully not at the same time.

Cheers!