Into The Woods and Diving into the Arts

Although our night before had been tame, we did have grand plans for breakfast in the morning.  I sprung out of bed before the littles were even stirring and headed down the block to procure pastries to accompany an Austrian breakfast feast (this was all an effort to relive the glory days of Obertraun).  And after two days spent in the hubbub of the city, we decided it was time to head out to the Viennese countryside; to the Lainzer Tiergarten…where, inevitably, more chestnuts abounded.

While I will admit to being proficient at planning activities and adventures, I should not , in actuality, be responsible for leading the charge.  When that happens we end up where we were today; at the playground a mere 200 meters into the woods, laying on the grass while Mom made blobs of sand for the girls to play with and absolutely no motivation to hike into the wilderness.  John was not impressed.  So, after much coercion, we were all herded together for a hike into the woods.  We made it a fair distance before the girls started to wilt…but, unfortunately, Bailey goes straight from ‘wilting’ to ‘screaming her ever-loving head off’.  It’s really charming when she’s strapped to your back too…I highly recommend the experience any time you’re in our neck of the woods.  So, as usual, this was our sign to turn around and start making for home.  We did manage a pit stop for a picnic lunch and some rock collecting on the way, though.  I may give the kid a lot of flack for her behavior, but for a two-year old being pushed to the brink of exhaustion on a daily basis, Bailey really wasn't doing so bad.

Eventually, we made it back to the train and into our neighborhood where I abandoned our group to pop into Bobby’s, a British and American Food store.  Mom, Emily and I had been reminiscing about our trip to Scotland this time last year and were planning a surprise for the rest of the group.  Joe and John, apparently, were also feeling sentimental.  They must have also heard the call of Great Britain because they indulged in a trip to The Four Bells for some Pub food and Guinness on tap.  

The following morning, Mom, Emily and I were bustling about the kitchen together whipping up a traditional Scottish Breakfast, thanks to the supplies from Bobby’s and a working knowledge of the cuisine from our fantastic host, Grant, when we were staying over in Edinburgh.   We had a huge spread of fried eggs, sausage, sautéed mushrooms and tomatoes, beans, toast, potato pancakes, and authentic HAGGIS!! Mom made the HUGE mistake of reading the label of ingredients before we served it.  *shudder*  I ate it anyway. 

At this point in the visit, a big topic of conversation (when we weren’t busy being revolted by the robust constitution of the Scots) was what everyone  felt we hadn’t seen or done enough of yet.  The answer to this question will always be: eating cake/ice cream and drinking coffee…but outside of that, we felt it’d round out the visit to hit up an art museum.  And while we really wanted to show off the Belvedere palace, The Albertina, in the first district, was closer to the cake and coffee…and so, understandably won out. 

There is a really delicate balance to bringing kids into an art museum.  It’s actually best to go when it promises to be the most crowded (camouflaging the noise children are apt to make) and it helps if they’re relatively well-fed and well-exercised prior to the actual art-viewing.  Today, it helped that we had a number of people for Bailey to bounce around to and I’d have to say, overall, we managed a fairly smashing success.  We viewed two quite extensive collections as well as a walk through the palace’s apartments (originally built for Empress Sisi’s youngest daughter), which when there are kids in-tow is about as much as one can hope to manage.  After our culture-filled morning, we stopped at our favorite Wurstel stand (and by this I mean, the only one I will deign to patronize) for some wurst and pretzels…and a little Sturm for Mama…because I’m an addict.  We had been debating over a coffee house to visit after our al fresco lunch and opted to stop by Café Central; a busy, tourist-filled place by all means, but the impressive cakes more than make up for that. 

Perhaps to our good fortune, the place was bursting at the seams when we arrived; absolutely no place to stuff our large group.  So, John led everyone on a little tour of the nearby Ferstel Passage while I waited patiently for the amazing multi-tasking woman behind the pastry ‘buffet’ to have a moment to pack some cakes to take home. 

It all ended up well; Bailey caught a catnap on the way home and woke up in time to graze on our delectable tea party fare.  Mom suggested I pick out three cakes to take home, but I stood looking at them for so long that we ended up with six.  As it was, I could’ve gotten more.  We really enjoyed getting to try bites of each treat while Audrey honed in on and devoured her favorite; a chocolate dome.  (the kid has excellent taste)

After our most excellent tea party, we convinced the girls to give the movie The Princess Bride a try.  We really like finding movies that both the girls and we can enjoy together and  I think this time things clicked…especially for Audrey.  She loved Fezzik or “the good-guy giant” as she calls him and has been asking to watch it again ever since. 

Even though our normal schedule had been way off for some time, Sunday evenings for us are usually focused on preparing for the coming week; making sure things are ready for work and school and that things around the house are in relatively good order.  Ahough my family had another full day left in town, John still had to go in to work the next day and was trying to get everything prepared for the upcoming week.  I was already in my hot pink pants, which I imagine are the equivalent of other people’s sweat pants for indicating that I’m in for the night. (At least if there’s a fire, I’ll be standing on the street looking sassy…or at least ready to samba.) Emily, Mom and Joe, on the other hand, were itching for some more gelato from Zanoni & Zanoni .  So, while John caught a little American Football and Dad and I sat in the living room reading, the rest of the gang headed downtown for something sweet.  To be honest, it may take months before I'm up for doing anything past the girls' bedtime; I think I cashed in all my night owl chips for the year with Wiener Wiesn.  Kids, this is why you don't drink beer by the liter.

A Day at The Prater

As far as candid photos go, this one's gold

The next morning the four of us who had stayed up burning the midnight oil were obviously moving slower than usual.  When asked what she wanted for breakfast (and I expected to hear “cereal”) Audrey demanded pancakes…since she’s cute and I’m a morning person whether I’m hungover or not, I obliged.  So, we all headed out of the house that morning (barely) at least with full bellies, if not bright eyed or bushy-tailed.  Today we were headed back to the scene of the crime—to the Prater.  But today we were going for Mom, who could not fathom leaving Vienna without riding the Ferris Wheel.  After grabbing some lunch (because this is the glacial pace we were moving at) Joe and I volunteered to ride the Wheel with mom.  The girls were rather distracted by the rest of the hubbub in the park and I suspect the rest of the men-folk didn’t find this landmark quite as endearing as we did. 

On the Riesenrad

Side trail: Anyone who knows me well knows that my life has been inordinately influenced by movies of the 80’s and early 90’s.  Shamelessly so.  And as far as Austria and Vienna go, two movies that stand out in our little world are (of course) The Sound of Music and (wait for it!!!) The Living Daylights; possibly my inexplicably favorite James Bond movie of ALL TIME.  The soundtrack might have something to do with it.  If you don’t know what I’m talking about, drop everything, purchase this movie on iTunes, make some popcorn, laugh with giddy satisfaction while viewing it and come back here.

I’ll wait.

Anyway, there are a fair number of scenes in this James Bond film that are set in Vienna and, of course, the Prater is featured along with a ride on the Ferris Wheel. 

So, of course, we had to do it. If it’s good enough for Timothy Dalton, it’s good enough for us.

Little cowgirls

When we got back down off of the Ferris Wheel (but not from our Living Daylights high...Never!), the girls were bursting at the seams.  Audrey had been promised ice cream, which was immediately procured, and then we were off to the ponies!  The girls inevitably end up throwing me a curve ball anywhere horses are involved.  I never know who is going to be cool as a cucumber or who will start throwing  a wild screaming fit…although, I do remain prepared for anything within that spectrum.  Today, I was assuming Bailey would have some kind of issue with a total stranger taking her from my arms and strapping her into a saddle. I was wrong.  Audrey was the one who was clingy and distrusting while Bailey sat on her little mount like a proud cowgirl.  One thing is for sure; these girls love horses.  We're really hoping we'll eventually end up somewhere where horseback riding lessons will be an option for the girls.  

All too soon, though, we exchanged horses for shrieking dinosaurs as we wandered down the lanes of the Prater and gawked at the crazy roller coasters and game booths.  Eventually, to the girls’ great delight, we reached a playground that sits at the edge of the amusement park where they could swing to their hearts’ content.  I think Bailey was on a swing for close to an hour.  I just don’t understand how anyone can take that motion for so long without throwing up…but kudos to her.  Audrey, surprisingly, opted for practicing her climbing skills and even worked up the courage to take on a tall slide.  My little cautious girl is starting to gain some confidence and it makes me so proud. 

By this point in the afternoon the four of us who had been out all night could’ve been scraped off the floor.  We were done.  So, we started our long meandering way home through the main road out of the Prater woods…where there are a prolific amount of chestnut trees currently dropping horse chestnuts by the thousands.  The girls are understandably enthralled with these smooth, funky-looking nuts…Audrey, so much so, that after tucking up her shirt to fashion a pouch, began collecting them the entire way out of the park.  By the time we got to the train station, everyone had pockets and purses full of these little treasures.  We now have a bowl in the house, which at last count held fifty-three chestnuts.  Too bad they aren’t the kind for roasting.

After so much excitement the day before, it was unanimously decided that a night in was in order.  We made a dinner and promptly hit the sack. 

Out on the Town: Partying All Day...And All of the Night

Nearly all of our attempts to really see the first district of Vienna up to this point had been duds. So, we stubbornly set out at a fairly decent hour on Thursday to show off a bit more of the innards of our beloved city.  A short tram ride dropped us back in Heldenplatz, but this time our path led us through the grounds of the Hofburg Palace.  Again, this was interesting with so many people in tow.  We really are too used to having only four of us around—two of whom are relatively easy to drag along.  But grown-ups who get distracted by cool things and wander off? (I’m talking about my impressionable husband here…) It’s a horse of a different color.  

The Bear zoning in on Mama's quiche

We made our wandering way through the Hofburg and even stopped to check on the Lipizzaners in their stables before heading over to St. Michael’s Church and (finally!) to The Demel where our huge party was seated in a separate room and given a set of small tables that butted up to a squishy sofa. As far as trips to The Demel go, it was pretty grand.  Mom and Emily took the girls to look at cakes and pastries while John and I wisely stayed behind to order something containing protein to have with our cocoa and coffee.  We had one of my favorite waitresses (trust me, these are few and far between) and really just had a lovely time swapping cakes, tortes, drinks and even quiches around our little tea tables.

By the time we left The Demel a drizzling rain had started pitter pattering down, but it didn’t keep us from rounding the corner to see the plague column on Graben …which meant that Bailey realized we were near one of her favorite spots downtown.  While Mom, Audrey, Emily and I wandered into a book shop, Bailey was busy dragging John down the street to her favorite toy shop which happens to have a nearly life-sized plush brown bear out front.  And while mom and I were busy searching the shelves at the book store for a novel worthy of jump-starting our two-person German book club, Bailey had convinced John that she needed a miniature Merida doll to add to her and Audrey’s character collection.  The Bear marched into the book store and surprised Audrey with their new little treasure just about the same time Mom and I found the book Naschmarkt Mord (a criminal romance set in Vienna and written by a local author).  It was a slam-bang outing in any book.  We did take the opportunity to pop into St. Peter’s Church before the girls turned into pumpkins—something I would never regret.  Everyone took their time taking in the intricate details before deciding it was time to give the kiddos a break.  Sightseeing with kids can be both a blessing and a hardship…but since it means more downtime or napping, I most often consider it a blessing. 

Today, though, I had an errand to run while the girls were taking a break.  We’ve been falling down the bureaucratic rabbit hole for months now in an attempt to have a number assigned to Audrey so she can receive the state’s schooling subsidy.  After a ridiculous number of emails and phone calls, it was apparent that I HAD to physically bring a form out to Audrey’s preschool and it had to be done ASAP…which, when she’s not there for me to pick up and John has no reason to go in to work, is kind of a pain in the butt.  Especially when I’d rather be drooling on my couch. 

Luckily though, my mom suggested John and I take the opportunity to spend some time together and it turned out to be a pretty fantastic idea.  We dropped off our forms and after a really nice chat with Audrey’s fantastic teacher, John and I decided to pop into one of the museums that is included in our year membership to the Art History Museum: The Museum of Voelkerkunde...which translates to "Ethnology" and just doesn't seem right in a former Nazi-occupied country...but regardless, it has always kind of intrigued us.  For John, because he is a great lover of history and foreign cultures…and me, because I have a wandering interest in just about anything (hence, the dodo bird spirit animal).  The museum appeared deserted when we entered and was silent as a tomb as we crossed the main hall.  It was apparent that this place doesn’t necessarily get a lot of foot traffic (perhaps because of the aforementioned unfortunate translation).  But that didn’t mean it’s contents were unworthy.  We walked through a really intriguing exhibit called 'Beyond Brazil' and another upstairs that canvased South and Southeast Asian Religions.  It was fascinating and a bit overwhelming to be honest.  But I’m glad we went.  The two of us were fairly exhausted after an hour or so and decided to head home.  See what I mean about the babies?  They never would have let us stay out so long. 

When we got home, though, we only had a little time to rest before gearing up to go out again.  Weeks before everyone’s arrival, John and I had jumped at the opportunity to get tickets for the two of us and my siblings to something called Wiener Wiesn; Vienna’s version of Oktoberfest.  This is also the reason we found it necessary to shop for traditional garb the week before.  Joe and John donned their festive jackets while Emily and I squeezed ourselves into the odd waistlines of our hodge-podge dirndls.  With a few more preparations for the girls and a passing prayer that at least Bailey would behave herself, we headed out into the night. 

Wiener Wiesn is held on the corner of the Wurstelprater (where the giant ferris wheel is).  Every year, enormous tents are raised here and a huge variety of bands play three times a day.  We had opted for the full-on drunken Oktoberfest experience instead of what I’m sure would be a more family-friendly oompah experience at mid-day.  After entering our tent and finding our table, it was evident that we were in for a good time.  We got there half an hour or so before the band was supposed to start playing and the tent was already packed with people making merry.  After giving several waiters the stink eye for ignoring us, we finally managed to order some enormous beers and food…which all arrived with absolutely shocking speed.  Soon after the food arrived, the band started and the party was officially on.  About ten minutes later I was dragged up onto the bench of our table by a merry-making neighbor to dance.  And that’s pretty much how our night went.  The band was fantastic—in that they played everything from polka to John Denver .  I doubt I’ve ever sung along to Country Roads, Take Me Home at such blaring decibel levels.  They even played Achy Breaky Heart at some point and most of the people around us knew the words to it.  I could’ve died I laughed so hard.  Mostly, because the most poignant memory attached to the song was when I was written up in 2^nd grade PE for changing the words to “Achy Breaky Fart”.  Hallmark can’t even touch those kind of memories. 

That's Willian with a Liter O'Beer, Folks

I’m not going to lie.  Our night at Oktoberfest was out-of-control...off the charts, especially for a couple of fuddy-duddy homebodies like John and me.  But it was an absolutely priceless experience to have with my brother and sister.  I have no idea what time we got home, but there were no lights on and no babies awake to wrestle back into bed.  A good night all around. 

Best Self Portrait. Ever.

Into the Lake District

An hour spent silently in the presence of the Lake District's sights is better than any length spent in front of a flashing box.  Perhaps this is the true root of my annoyance with technology...anything keeping people from spending time doing this cannot be good.  Our trip to the small town of Obertraun was short, but incredibly full.  We set out Monday morning and took two different trains.  I've said it before and I'll say it again; train travel is the way to go.  We certainly could've made it to our destination in shorter time, but there is something to be said for taking your time--particularly while on vacation.  I also love that I'm more accesible to my babies than on a car road trip.  Life is much easier on the littles when they can snuggle people at-will and retrieve their own fallen objects from the floor.  The accessibility of bathrooms is also priceless.  So, we leisurely wound our way into Austria's wilderness to the sleepy town of Obertraun.

Obertraun is situated on Hallstatter See, across the lake from the much-visited town of Hallstatt.  By the time we had arrived at our hotel and were shown our rooms by our excellent hostess, the girls were ready to burn off some energy, so we took a short walk to the town's playground...situated on the lake shore.  I think all of us were up for a little exercise (and SWINGING!)--we really enjoyed our time checking out the sights for the first time.  The only real downside to choosing to stay in Hallstatt's less crowded counterpart was the limited availability of markets or restaurants.  We walked a bit more than we are accustomed to on a quest for snacks and libations...and after what felt like a major undertaking just to get snack food, we found that all the restaurants in our 'neck of the woods' were closed on Mondays.  The only one in town that was actually open was back by the supermarket we had just trekked home from. Well, we sucked it up, and luckily, the Sturm and fresh fish from the lake were worth the walk to Gasthof Hoellwirt for a fantastic dinner.  Possibly the best money spent that evening, however, was for a five minute cab ride home in the torrential rain.  Bailey kept yelling "I'm in a car, Gramma!!  We's ridin' a car!!!" To her credit, it had been nearly six months since the kid had been in an automobile and the experience was clearly thrilling. Little did she know, we had a day planned in the morning that could top any cab ride.

I guess I should explain that our apartment at the Hotel Seerose was absolutely fantastic.  Situated on the top floor with incredible views, it had three bedrooms, two full baths, a kitchen, living room, dining area and three separate balconies.  But the breakfast, oh, the breakfast!!  It was honestly nothing I couldn't have put together myself (with considerable effort), but walking downstairs and having a full Austrian breakfast feast waiting, not to mention the hot chocolate delivered to me as I sat down to eat...well, it was euphoric.  Even if Bailey spent most of her time at the breakfast table trying to see if she could pass for technically bathing in yogurt. 


This morning, we needed the extra fortification of that meat and cheese platter...and even perhaps the liver spread.  Because first on our list was a trip to Dachstein Salzkammergut, the area's main natural attraction.  At Dachstein one has many options; the lifts here not only offer stunning views, but each level hosts a range of activities from tours of impressive ice caves or the 'mammoth cave' to hiking that would make any outdoor enthusiast drool.  We were limited by both time restrictions and things that were age-appropriate for the girls, so we headed up two different lifts (one of which stopped for a few uncomfortable moments) and took the trail out to what is toted as Austria's most notable viewing platform: 5fingers, named for it's five separate diving board-esque platforms that stick out of the mountain over a 400 meter drop.  The walk there was great...aside from worrying I might drop Bailey off a sheer cliff because the wind was whipping my unruly hair in my face...it was absolutely lovely.  We all teetered about the viewing platforms, but soon headed back to the trail since the cold whipping wind didn't really make for a relaxing break from anything.  I was about 2 minutes into our hike back, however, when I realized why the walk out had seemed so pleasant.  It had all been downhill.  Now I was windburned, cold and wanted nothing more than to sit down with a mug of cocoa. Even the distant memories of our magical breakfast couldn't sustain me.  Hiking uphill at high altitudes with 40 pound babies attached to your body sucks...just for future reference.

The mugs of hot chocolate waiting for us at the restaurant at the mountain's mid-station, though, were most welcome and well-earned.  We stopped there to eat some lunch before heading back down the mountain where we hopped in yet another cab (rapture!!) to visit the famed downtown of Hallstatt.

Anyone who hasn't been there is probably wondering what the deal is...actually, Joe is probably also wondering since he was basically shipped there without being consulted in any way. (It's his own fault)  Hallstatt has a very rich history as a town that has been mining salt for thousands of years...that's right: thousands.  Some of the earliest evidence of the Celts was found here.  It is really such a curious place; it is tiny, the population measuring under a thousand, and situated on a steep hillside directly on the lake.  Until the 19th century, the town was only accessible by boat...but now it seems accessible to everyone; the place was buzzing.  And for a good reason.  This quaint town built into the hillside just absolutely steals the heart.  We walked the length of the town along the shore of the lake and then headed up winding stairs to the catholic parish church where the church yard is absolutely crowded to the brim with grave plots...so much so that if you're willing to pay a euro or two, you can enter the charnel house of the church where bones of the once-buried have been exhumed (to make room for the new ones), cleaned, painted and displayed. (the most recent of these was in 1995).  This tradition actually dates back to 1720 AD...it was incredible to be somewhere with a history so deep.

After getting our fill of creepy old bones, we had an hour to bum around town before taking the ferry boat back across the lake.  Mom bought the girls a pair of 'sister sheep' from one of the shops and we ate ice cream (or drank beer) while taking in the scenery.  Our ferry ride across the lake was just the icing on the cake.  Seeing the town of Hallstatt from a boat on the lake was absolutely priceless--that vantage point was the one that took my breath away. It was a very sweet way to part with a place that is so devastatingly charming. 

The ferry we chose to take dropped us off at Hallstatt's train station, which meant we had a 20 minute walk along the lakeside to return to our hotel in Obertraun.  On the way, Bailey fell asleep on my back (sans carrier...that was interesting).  We saw several squished, dead salamanders and were almost run over by at least 4 cyclists (who we're assuming are also responsible for the aforementioned salamanders).  By the time we made it back, we were done.  Toast.  It was a hell of a day.  And we were so thankful that the Gasthaus down the lane was open for dinner.  Bailey was also excessively thankful, but mostly because we I let a cat in the door when we arrived (it turned out he lived there) and they also had a resident dog who was incredibly patient with my enthusiastic two-year old. The pork wasn't bad either.  Mostly, though, we were beat and ended up crashing as soon as we got back to the hotel.

The best part about waking up (next to seeing my cute babies sleeping next to each other) was knowing there would be another breakfast.  John and I were seriously considering relocating just so we could wake up every morning with the promise of that fantastic spread.  Checking out so soon was a bummer.  We really loved our time in Obertraun and Hallstatt, but we were ever so thankful for the time we had.  After lingering as long as humanly possible at our designated breakfast tables, we reluctantly headed to the train station where we sat, taking in the scenery for the last time.  Well, the girls were off making friends with a big friendly draft horse...the rest of us were sitting around trying to impress the loveliness into our memories.

Our train ride home was smooth sailing.  The girls are fantastic little travelers (even though one of them still has a propensity to scream on occasion *cough* Bailey *cough*).  We were happy to be home.  It was such a full trip, I couldn't believe how little time we'd actually been gone.