My Birthday at the Hofburg

So, I had a Birthday this week.  I'm not big on them...but not for the usual reasons.  I don't have any irrational fears about aging and I don't get my hopes up that this one day a year will be the greatest ever--that I have to do something extraordinary to validate my own birth.  I don't hope that everyone of my acquaintance will stop and take note of me and give me well wishes.  While I am always appreciative of the gifts and attention people give me, I also find it awkward and embarrassing. So, I was very happy to be celebrating in a country where no one but my immediate family is aware that I'm a June baby. For me, taking one day a year to do something special is nice, but, especially with the way we've been living lately, every day is special.  And I mean that.  So, I was kind of at a loss for what to do on my birthday...since most any day we've had so far in Vienna would've passed muster in my book.

My little Viennese Lady

One thing I knew for sure was that we were going to The Demel for breakfast.  We walked all the way from our apartment down through the Hofburg Palace grounds to the grand pastry shop that also makes a hell of a plate of scrambled eggs.  The girls sipped hot chocolate with extra whipped cream and we nearly forgot our little Viennese Audrey girl was there, because we were so preoccupied with keeping Bailey from knocking our table/drinks/food/anything not bolted to the floor over. A friend of ours brought up the phrase 'bull in a china shop' in reference to this child's particular temperament and it's fitting.  We had a wonderful breakfast, but it took some work!

After we finished breakfast and Bailey helped me pick out a few sweets from the buffet , we wandered down towards Stephansdom, where we lingered a bit before John took the girls back to the 5th district to play in the park so I could have some time on my own to do whatever I wanted.  I intended to head right to the Hofburg palace to check out some museums that have been on my list for a while, but as I strode past Peterskirche, I realized for as many times as I've walked by, I've never stepped foot inside.

So I did.  Because it was my birthday.

High Alter in Peterskirche

And I was so thankful, because this place is worthy of some ooh-ing and ahh-ing.  Not only is the Peterskirche a beautiful example of Baroque architecture, but I loved how silently and reverently it was viewed by everyone entering it's doors.  In contrast to the prominent Stephansdom, which sees a much greater number of tourists through it's doors and can feel even a bit rowdy for a cathedral at times, I was amazed at how the Peterskirche encourages visitors not only to appreciate the incredible detail of the church, but more so to appreciate that it is still a functioning house of God.  Very cool. 

I lingered in the pews for a long time and viewed the two almost disturbing shrines to martyrs that are displayed near the front of the church before heading out on my main errand for the day: a trip to the Hofburg Palace to view the Palace's silver collection, the Sisi Museum and the Kaiser apartments.  That's three museums/tours in one.  Definitely something I wanted to see and also something the girls would never even make it half way through on a good day.  As it was, I barely survived.

I know viewing a silver collection sounds like a total bore (and I'm sure John would agree with you), but I spent an inordinate amount of time looking at place settings, linens, menu plans and the rest of the kitchen accoutrement that was (and some that still is) used for formal and informal dining for the royal family and state functions.   It was right up my alley.  It might also have something to do with how much I miss all of the beloved kitchen supplies I've been waiting for in our shipment. (*cough* pottery withdrawal *cough*)  So, I took some time to drool over the cutlery and serving dishes. 

Empress Sisi (image credit)

Next up on my tour was the SiSi museum; devoted to the Empress Elisabeth, wife of Franz Josef I.  Before going through these exhibits, I knew very little of the Empress and afterwards, I had learned probably more that I should about anyone.  It was an overwhelming amount of information, which was presented very well, but I wasn't crazy about the subject matter.  Sisi, as she was called from the time she was a child, was brought up in the country before capturing the heart of Emperor Franz Josef at the age of 15.  They were married and she was forced into the public eye--something that apparently made the woman go a bit whack-a-doodle, for lack of a better phrase.  She was melancholy, depressed, obsessed with her health and beauty and even engaged in extreme behaviors in an effort to validate her existence.  Not my favorite set of qualities in a woman.  Yet somehow, after her murder at the age of 60, the story of her life was immortalized, sensationalized and exploited for money.  More activities that are in no way attractive to me.

In the end, I was glad to have learned more about her, if only to find I felt sorry for her and the crap life she chose.  I also felt like I learned more about Franz Josef, a man who despite all his wife's faults and their incredible differences in personality still loved her deeply when she died.  John and I are now on a search for more insights into the life of Franz Josef I--a pretty fantastic man and Emperor in any book. 

Shaking off the lingering heebie jeebies of Sisi, I moved into the Kaiser apartments, which Franz Josef I, Empress Sisi and (obviously) many others have inhabited.  The rooms open for viewing were set up to reflect how they would have been when Franz Josef I was in power and I really enjoyed seeing the differences between his and Sisi's rooms.  It was apparent that Franz Josef was a hard-working, devoted, spartan man.  As much as it was obvious that Sisi had far too much time on her hands.  (ankle length or not, NO ONE needs three hours a day to dress their hair)

By the time I was done with my tour, I had spent nearly two hours in the Hofburg palace stuffing my brain with information I have no desire to regurgitate here.  You'll just have to come visit and see yourself.  I was exhausted--mentally and physically.  It might sound weird, since I do chase around two crazy kids all day, but my body was totally unaccustomed to standing/walking in the same position for that long.  In a normal day, I walk at least three miles if not many more.  While I'm walking I'm also carrying heavy bags and 35-pound children (sometimes all at the same time).  I walk, run, skip, sit, stand, crouch, sprint for dear life and lunge to save the rug rats from certain disaster.  ALL. DAY. So, why was my body suddenly screaming when I was allowed to remain upright wandering about for hours?  Who knows, but I even got some new knee pain out of it.

It was worth it.  Touring the Hofburg has been on my list for a long time.

Mmmm...Passion fruit goodness!

When I got back home, the girls were contentedly watching their FAVORITE movie at the moment: Mulan (I can tell you, the soundtrack is lacking) and John had a big grin on his face for having managed to traverse the streets and parks of the city with the girls all on his own.  I ordered some delivery sushi (I know, right?! Best. Idea. Ever.) and chilled with my sweet little fam all afternoon.  For dessert after dinner, the girls helped John put candles on the cakes we had gotten from The Demel and sang to me...we only had to re-light the candles once because Audrey claimed she hadn't helped enough on the first try.

And that was totally fine because I didn't even bother wishing on my candles this year.

I've already got everything I'll ever need.

God is so Good.  It might as well be my birthday every day.  

Back in the Saddle: The Frauenhuber

I'm sure at least three of you were wondering at the lack of a Father's Day post last week...and subsequently my ever-lauded Sunday coffee break, but the truth is that there wasn't much to tell. It was Fathers Day, so I sacrificed (ha!) my outing in favor of staying in with the family. We spent the day hanging out together, which is, by far, our favorite activity. After the girls went to sleep that night, I convinced John to pop down to the Irish pub a few blocks from us to watch the football match with a Guinness in hand. What else could a hard working Papa ask for, eh?

The view from my seat

But this week, I was back to my old ways. I headed out a bit later than usual (this is a trend I'm noticing), having set my mind on a cup of Joe in Vienna's oldest coffee house: Cafe Frauenhuber. Details on this are sketchy and I have a tendency to shy away from any place boasting such a difinative title, but this place garners street cred for having hosted Mozart's last public performance in 1791. Just a few blocks from the Staatsoper and down an unassuming side street sits Cafe Frauenhuber--proudly displaying it's existence to the world. The outdoor seating was absolutely choking the sidewalk when I arrived, so I opted for a seat indoors. And I'm glad of it. The interior is richly decorated with crimson coushioned seats and elegant chandeliers. On the walls hang prints of the city scape from days gone by. Glass cabinets dispersed throughout the Cafe display elegant place settings and coffee accoutrement. overall, one can surely feel the age and the pride of this establishment. My großer mocca, although I paid for it later, was superior and I'm still stubbornly trying to make myself like Sacher torte even though next time I think I'd rather go for some strudel.

Working on immunity to cake and coffee...or something like that

The indoor seating was pleasantly deserted and I settled into my seat, doing my best to activate my relaxation response to counteract how much coffee and sugar I was consuming. Now that I'm making a conscious effort to control my blood sugar, I'm starting to view caffeine and sweets as poison. Can't I just build up an immunity like The Dread Pirate Roberts did with Iocane powder?! The humanity!

But in all seriousness, it is worth dealing with the shakes one day a week to sit in silence, wondering at the world going by--to truly evaluate my inner-most thoughts without interruption. Herr Obers are good about that; they wouldn't dream of disrupting my withdrawn reverie with something so silly as clearing an empty plate. Truly, the Viennese coffee house is a sanctuary for someone like me.

This was no street performer...it was a free concert

Today, I brush aside the hectic, distracting thoughts, and instead, center my attention on the one who created me.  These afternoons are precious because I know I have carved out time to commune with Him. And He speaks to me: I am with you. Always. Focus on ME. I spend my time letting those words reverberate through my soul before leaving my place of worship, carrying Him with me in my heart.

He was with me when I stopped to listen to an amazing pianist on Kartnersrasse...who knows how long I lingered--He was there.  And He was with me when I entered Stephansdom for the twenty-something time...to see and hear something I hadn't before; Sunday evening mass was being held and He gave me comfort in understanding His words of scripture even though they were spoken in a foreign tongue.  And He was surely with me as I came home to running shouts of "Mama! Mama!! Mama's home!!!"

A gathering for mass at Stephansdom

Now here I am, beginning a new week, focused on Him. May my every thought be tied back to His loving presence. He is with me always--May He also be with you.

A New Kind of Exhausted: Exhaustingly Fantastic

As John flopped down on the bed this afternoon in exhaustion and gave a big old tired harrumph, I turned to him and said: "we've had a good weekend, huh Papa?". That was a gross understatement.  The girls and I wore poor John (not to mention ourselves) out this weekend.

Running down the main drive of the Oberes Belvedere

Saturday morning we woke to cloudy skies and thunderstorms, so we did what any sensible Viennese family would--we put on our rain gear and seized the day.  We were off to the Belvedere yet again.  The last time we visited this palace the rain shortened our jaunt around the grounds, but luckily this time we were determined to disregard the inclement weather in favor of the art galleries housed inside.  We found out when we arrived that the Lower Belvedere is closed until next week, so we got tickets for exhibits in the Upper Belvedere and headed inside to get our fill.  Although we only made it through two floors of galeries before the girls started falling apart, we still got to take in some really amazing works.  Some of my favorite outbursts from Bailey along the way were: "Me want a ice cream!" and "Me watch a Lion King!" If only, kid...if only.

The exhibits that we did see were very impressive and we got to see all the works of Gustav Klimt that were on display.  Klimt is Austria's most famous painter, best known for his painting 'The Kiss', which we were able to view.  I hadn't been too crazy about the few paintings and prints of his I'd previously seen, but taking in such a wide array of his works in person made me change my mind.  His paintings at a glance appear very disjointed and chaotic, but in person I found a new appreciation for them. 

My one picture inside the Oberes Belvedere...whoops!

And the palace itself?  Was quite fascinating, yet underwhelming. I was under the impression that the Upper Belvedere was designed for the sole purpose of hosting functions and parties, but I was surprised to find how domestic (for lack of a better word) the rooms we toured were.  Pictures weren't allowed, but I did manage to take one photo of the large main room on the second floor.  (In my defense, I had no idea photos weren't allowed.  I'll figure some way to blame it on the children) But this was the most opulent room we saw (aside from the chapel...yowza). Most of the other rooms had detailed scenes decorating the ceilings, but aside from that, seemed quite functional or boringly appointed. i.e.: This room housed four bookshelves.  *yawn* In his defense, Prince Eugene of Savoy was a military man.  I'll save my giddiness for Schonbrunn's interior. 

lunch at Salm Brau..she's looking loopy

Anyway, after boring our children, we let them loose in the gardens on our way to lunch at Salm Brau, where we drank big beers (or apple juice) and stuffed our faces with schnitzel.  A good day in any book.

Blazing a trail!

Although we do try to find time for more grown up pursuits on the weekends, we still like to make sure the girls have something that is just for them.  So, Sunday we took them to the zoo in celebration of the sun's glorious return.  It was really just an excuse to have a place to let the kiddos run around as much as they wanted without fear of getting hit by a car.  We tried to hit up some of the enclosures that we haven't seen yet, but, honestly, the girls' favorite part was running through a wooded path up the hill to the mini Triol Villiage.  (Where we got to see exotic cows, bunnies, goats and chickens.) And as most things in our lives are dictated, by the time we had our fill of farm animals, Bailey started demanding ice cream..which means we had to eat lunch first...which is how we ended up leaving the zoo to eat in the adjoining Triolergarten Gasthaus.  Lunch was actually really good and Bailey eventually got her ice cream fix before we headed to the grounds of Schonbrunn palace.

I could not pry her down from here.

Audrey loved the huge fountain that sits at the bottom of the hill in the gardens at Schonbrunn.  We walked up behind it and got a really cool view of the palace through the falling water.  It was, by far, her favorite part of the day. Then we took a bit of a stroll through the side paths of the lower garden and found a bird house? bird cage? bird sanctuary?  Either way, Bailey declared that it was HER house and she let the birdies live there.  So, take that, Vienna. 

"This a-mine's house!!"

By that time we were all wilting a bit.  Bailey had just guzzled the last of our water supply and was tyrannically demanding more, so we hit up the gift shop for provisions and headed home...where John finally declared defeat from an awesome weekend.  This is really why we celebrate Friday nights--we know whatever the next two days bring will surely be exhaustingly fantastic.

Out on the Town--Our Friday Nights

Well, it only took a week of sweltering, humid heat for me to wake up to a windy overcast day and say "Yes!  I love cold rain!"  It has been gloriously cool the last two days and we've had every single window in the apartment open letting those cool breezes through.  This makes for some interesting 'interactions' with the neighbors...namely the dude across the street who lives with his parents and NEVER wears a shirt.  It also means we have surround sound during football matches.  Any goal scored elicits a smattering of victorious hoots or forceful expletives that can be heard all down the street. Ah, apartment living! I'm honestly not complaining--it is terribly entertaining.

It seems like we have really been looking forward to our weekend with Papa more than usual this week.  Don't get me wrong, we had tons of fun gallivanting around town while he was at work, but everything is more fun when Papa is involved. The countdown to Friday evening seemed to start Monday morning and the girls were so excited when Papa came home Friday night and announced he didn't have to go to work for the next two days.  We celebrated by eating a simple dinner and heading out on the town for our Friday night walk.

The quartet on Kartnerstrasse

I don't think I can express how good it is for our souls to walk downtown like this every week.  We walked, ran and skipped through our neighborhood, garnering skeptical glances and broad smiles from people on the street.  A guy at the Kebab stand even tried to give Bailey a running hug.  She chickened out at the last second, but eventually gave him a shy 'buh buh!' (which is Austrian for 'Bye Bye').  We paused as usual at the Staatsoper to take in part of the night's live showing on the screen outside the building.  After our fill of sweet, swelling opera, we continued down Kartnerstrasse to check out the night's street performers--a blind man singing opera, jugglers putting on a hysterically dramatic show, a young, unassuming dude playing accordion, a group in shiny robes with plastered smiles half-heartedly singing christian music, and Audrey's favorite: a quartet playing everything from Metallica to (I kid you not, Mom) the theme from Last of the Mohicans.  I adore that song, but ever since we heard some Native American street performers playing it on their wooden flutes while in Scotland, I can't seem to escape it. Audrey informed me after listening to three of the quartet's songs that she is going to play the cello when she's big.  I'm holding her to that.

Bailey said "Him a silly guy!"

We headed towards Stephansdom on the promise of gelato.  Audrey has staunchly requested strawberry ever since we moved here, but Bailey has moved on from chocolate or mango to lemon. She's got broad tastes, that one! We stood in Stephansplatz admiring one of the best human statues we've encountered yet and trying to avoid the clown proffering balloon animals. We walked the perimeter of the old Gothic cathedral, both John and I trying to memorize details that we hadn't yet taken in, though I can't count how many times we've walked this same path. And when we went inside to take yet another glance at the old girl's glorious interior we were greeted with the sound of organ music and swelling voices; the sanctuary of the church was closed for choir practice. Audrey and Bailey loved it, but soon it was time to leave--to walk past the crowds shouting for the breakdancers in the square and hop on the train back home.

A homeless woman staring at Christ on the rear of Stephansdom

This Friday night walk is becoming ritual; it's path is always the same, but somehow, every week we encounter a totally new and original bevvy of cultural experiences--everything from opera to hip hop.  It's a grand way to celebrate our little slice of pure joy that is spending 48 hours as nothing but a family.

How to Beat the Heat, The Viennese Way

Dehydration is your worst enemy!

I haven't written much lately because I've almost been afraid that writing about it will somehow pop the awesome little bubble we're living in.  First of all, It's Summer, y'all.  And not simply meaning we've officially passed the first day of it on the calendar...it is HOT.  It is humid.  And we are having a grand old time keeping cool.  I'll admit it's taking me much longer than usual to get used to the way your skin sweats even when you're not moving and your lungs reject the amount of water vapor they're suddenly forced to inhale with every breath, but I know humidity--I've got over 22 years of living with it under my belt.  We are all over this.  Unsurprisingly, we've been investing our time in finding new water parks to splash in and figuring out how to say "I'd like to purchase a fan, please" in German.  (seriously, Germans?  Ventilator?  It sounds like something that I'd install in a car...)

Ice cream always beats the heat

We've been living the simple life...Monday we took our traditional jaunt to the Nashmarkt and stopped at the neighborhood park for lunch on the way home.  Tuesday we met up with our friends at the beach and spent the entire day splashing in the river. Wednesday the girls asked to go back to the Butterfly house (Audrey was eager to overcome her previous fears and had high ambitions of letting one land on her finger) We ended up eating lunch together at the Palmenhaus (a portion of the Hofburg palace greenhouses that was converted into a restaurant), checked out the butterflies (Audrey did much better--she walked the whole way though by herself and even smiled when a Butterfly flitted past her), and then stopped for some much-needed ice cream.  (When you don't have a river to dip yourself in, it's the next best thing.)  Thursday, we headed back to the waterfront to a fantastic splash park on the Danube Island.  The girls had a heck of a time splashing through the freezing cold pools and riding back and forth on the wooden ferry 'boat' that kids could power across one of the larger water features.

Taking a ride on the ferry

Sisters in their new cool jammies

Really, life has just been grand.  Our focus is spending time together, having fun and I love it. The groceries and laundry and ticky tacky errands are just fluff that gets swept under the rug of our grand adventures.  We stop to talk to old ladies almost every time we wait for a train.  The woman who works mornings at our grocery store now knows Audrey and Bailey by name.  The girls make eyes at strangers and put crinkly smiles on people's faces wherever we go.  We are out in the world spreading joy and having a good time while we're at it.  Praise the Lord!  If this is our mission, I think I could get used to it.

Me and my bear--soaking up the sun

In other news, I've made some great strides in my struggle with my blood sugar this week (which probably accounts for at least half of the chipper outlook on life).  I am restoring some imbalances with supplements, controlling my cortisol levels through that and limiting my caffeine intake.  I feel well rested, solid and energetic all day.  And that makes an amazing difference in how I am able to love on those girls...or even how I am able to carry both of them home, tired and wilted from a day of having too much fun. 

I am so thankful for the sunshine, for my new-found stable strength, for my sweet darling girls and my amazing little family.  God is good.  Life is Grand.  All is well.

That's all I've got...again...and it's still so overwhelmingly much.

Where Did My Week Go? And a Trip to Baden

Watching the scaffolding come down...thrilling!

The beginning and the end of my week could not possibly have been more different from each other. Last weekend was overcast and rainy and it carried over into our week through Wednesday.  I was starting to think we had moved to Seattle and seasonal depression was hovering ever closer.  To add injury to insult, I woke up Wednesday morning feeling like death warmed over.  The entire day is a hellish headache-and-vomit filled blur.  I've basically thrown any good habits regarding my blood sugar out the window since we arrived in Vienna and I've been dealing with small inconveniences and set backs all along, but this was like a huge slap to the face.  Time to get myself back on track again.  It ain't easy, but I'm making a turn towards better habits.

"running the hills" with their friends

So, after all the dreary rain and pain filled days that formed the odd abyss that was the first half of my week, imagine how surprised I was to find myself feeling like a million bucks, sitting in the sunshine for hours while my kids played happily with their friends.  Thursday and Friday were the stuff of dreams; we hit up a park with a killer sand pit and then a beach/water park the next day.  The girls played in the sun, in the dirt, running, jumping, swinging, splashing...it was fantastic.  And I can only hope these are the kind of days our summer will be filled with.  The Viennese, in general, live outside of their homes and during these warm glorious days, it's no small wonder.  I cannot even begin to comprehend a time in which I will find myself at a loss for potential activities in this city.

my sunshiny diva

The girls have come home the past several days just absolutely exhausted and I love it.  This is the stuff I remember fondly from my childhood summers--it seemed like we were out of the house until dinner every day, making tree forts in the woods, baking mud pies in the sun, having watermelon seed spitting contests and swimming in the lake.  And at the end of the summer we were brown as Indians...we were strong and wiry.  We were kids.

I feel like urban Americans especially (and I've been more guilty than most) get too caught up in the daily grind to embrace the glory of summer.  There are too many errands to run and chores to do...too many to-do's that Mom and Dad need to check off the list before families get around to playing outside.  It's hard--it's a cultural norm--and I'm just ridiculously happy that we've had the opportunity to live in an area and amidst a culture where we are now free to focus our energy on enjoying these beautiful days.

The plague column in Baden...and a cute kid

So, in carrying on with that theme, we took advantage of the sun this Saturday and hopped on a train to nearby Baden (only a twenty minute train ride from Vienna).  The girls loved sitting on the upper level of the "big big biiiiig train", watching the scenery go by and after our short trip, we found ourselves wandering the streets of charming Baden.  This town's roots date back to the Romans who gravitated to the area known for it's thermal baths, but most of the characteristics it carries today are similar to that of nearby Vienna (unsurprising, as it was a summer destination for many of Vienna's wealthy residents).  Still, Baden manages to retain an identity of it's own. Located within the Wienerwald (The Vienna Woods), the forested mountains are easily accessible from the city, as are a wealth of scenic hiking trails to chose from in the area.

Sisters!

By the time we arrived in Baden and reached the city center where a beautiful holy trinity column dedicated to the victims of the plague stands, we decided it was time to get out of the sun and find some lunch.  We lingered over brats and spatzle and enjoyed the cool interior of the Amterl Gasthaus before heading back into the now blazing sun to find a bit of nature.  (you see what I get for whining about rain? It's summer now, baby!)

Audrey was enthralled by all the flowers

The girls held hands all the way to Kurkpark where they ran amok sniffing all the blooms in the well manicured flower beds.  Then we headed up into the hills for a bit of a hike.  Luckily, this being a wooded area, the shade on the paths was gloriously cool.  Dispersed amidst the lower trails are statues and monuments for different composers like Mozart and Strauss.  After taking our fill of the forest, the only thing left to do was to find ice cream and hop on the train back home.  The girls were absolute toast after all the recent activity. We really enjoyed Baden and I can see us coming back to spend a day at the baths or wandering through the wooded hills. 

Mary Poppins Has Got Nothin' on Me

I'm coming to think of my weekly solo adventures as my Mary Poppins break--except instead of every second Tuesday, I get every Sunday afternoon off.  Anyone who finds me an umbrella with a parrot-head handle gets a high five and a free night on the sleeper sofa.  (seriously--this thing needs to be broken in.  We've had it over a week now...and never mind that it's free anyway.)

Cafe Museum: The closest thing to home...literally.

Today I was running a bit later than usual and didn't want to spend that much time out of the house.  We had had so much fun at the museum this morning and the girls weren't taking naps, so I decided to hit up something close to home...which turns out to be a place called Cafe Museum.

hmmm...that cauliflower looks extra crunchy

This cozy cafe is mere blocks from the Secession building (nicknamed 'The Golden Cauliflower' for it's unorthodox crowning glory) and the Staatsoper; it has been in operation since 1899 and, after several interior renovations, is now is decorated in it's original form: a minimalistic, simplistic design that differed greatly from the overly ornate cafes that were so popular when it first opened.  Unsurprisingly, like any Viennese cafe that has managed to remain in operation through two world wars, it was a popular hang out for many aspiring and successful artists (like Gustav Klimt), writers, and architects (Otto Wagner was known to grace the cafe regularly with his presence).

A table with a view

Outside of hopes for some fantastic cake, I  had no real expectations when I first stepped in, but I found a table near the back of the cafe and ordered a big Melange and some topfen torte.  Soon after Herr Manfred (I did not make that up) brought me my coffee, a woman waltzed in, strode past my table and, entirely without ceremony, began playing the piano directly behind me.  It was lovely; everything from Mozart to Moon River floated through my head as, from my excellent vantage point, I watched the tables fill to bursting-- the Herr Obers waltzing around each other with a silver tray (or two) in each hand, efficiently delivering coffee and sweets to the cafe's many appreciative patrons, most of whom had their noses stuck in their guide books or the newspapers supplied by the cafe on traditional wooden spindles.

empty plate, full heart

In the end, I didn't spend as much time out of the house as I usually do, but I did have time to savor my cake--to savor some time spent with my Lord and Savior, with nothing but my own thoughts to distract me.

I doubt Mary Poppins had anything on her every-other-Tuesday that rivaled this...magical expanding carpet bag and all.   

Museums on the Menu

Rainy days aren't getting us down.  We had a smattering of beautiful weather this week before returning to the regularly scheduled rain/sun/thunder/wind/more rain saga.  We were planning on taking a day trip out to Baden this Saturday to do a bit of hiking, but the forecast made us put it off for another weekend.  Instead, we took the opportunity to knock a few more museums off our list.

That's one gorgeous arsenal, Vienna.

Saturday morning we headed to the Heeresgeschictliches museum (say that three times fast) also known as the Viennese Military History museum.  This had the potential to be an incredible bore, if it weren't for three very important factors: First, the museum is housed in an immaculately designed arsenal built in the mid 1800's--quite a new building for Vienna's standards. The museum was actually part of the original design, making it the oldest (and largest) purpose-built military museum in the world.  Second, the layout and quality of the items on display were really impressive--even for my two and nearly-four year-old, who are now experts on these kinds of things.  Third, and most importantly, this museum has on display the car that Archduke Francis Ferdinand was riding in when he was assassinated in Sarajevo...along with his blood-stained uniform (complete with bullet hole) and the couch on which he died.  I know it sounds morbid, but it was so very cool to see these items connected to an event that has intensely shaped our history.  John was over the moon.  Our trip there was worth every Euro penny and I highly recommend a trip to the Heeresgeschichtliches museum to anyone even remotely interested in the history of Austria and their military.

The world's worst picture ever taken of this historic vehicle

Look, Auntie Barb!  Camels!!!

Sunday promised to be yet another dreary day, so after a repeat performance of John's epic story-telling game, we took the girls to a museum that is much more kid friendly and doesn't involve elephant-sized guns: The Natural History Museum, which is home to over 25 million artifacts and specimens.  This basically makes it the world's greatest stuffed animal display.  The museum is overwhelmingly open to kids (which is kind of a rarity in Vienna), the building itself is a work of art, but the amount of stuff to see is just mind blowing.  The girls went nuts running through all the displays before they started to turn into hyper hypos.  We booked it to Nautilus, the cafe housed in the building, and were impressed by the quality of the cuisine. We even ordered a banana split that came decorated as a ship.  But you know what the best part was for me?  (aside from a life-size recreation of a dodo bird) There were so many kids...being kids: screaming, being walked to sleep in their strollers, exclaiming loudly over displays, knocking glasses over.

Angels!! Come winter, we're moving into this place.

Ever since our experience with the crabby downstairs neighbor at our temporary apartment, I've been hypersensitive to the amount of noise my children produce.  I try not to ride them too hard about it, but I always feel more comfortable when someone else's kid is misbehaving or screaming in public.  It's an odd soothing presence...and the Natural History Museum was oozing with it.  I think year passes are in our future--I'll be more than happy to pass the long winter in the company of an automated T-Rex and a cafe serving ice cream with a side of screaming babies.

My Love Letter to You

My mind has been buzzing since I read a post last night on 'The Weed' about a man who is openly homosexual and happily married to a woman.  For the full story, take some time to read his entire post--there's no way I could sum up the eloquence of his words. But it's not the rightness or wrongness of homosexuality that has absorbed me, this post has me meditating on something much more important--love...and the overwhelming deep multifaceted meanings of that one simple word. 

One of the tattoos I've marked my body with (which is a post for another day) is the Hebrew word 'Hesed', which is the singular word meant to encompass God's eternal, reciprocal loving kindness.  One word...for something so big.  Love is an enormous concept and to limit it is to limit a relationship with The Ultimate Creator.

Through the beating of my heart today, I've heard nothing but love...love for my children, for my husband--my best friend, for the woman across from me on the train, for my family...which honestly encompasses all of you.  I am overflowing with love, my friends...my brothers and sisters.

The bottom line is this:  I don't care if you know me or not.  If you follow this blog or find it on a random google search.  I don't care if you are gay or straight, whether you breastfeed your babies or not...whether you are mormon, christian, atheist or are simply lost.

I love you.

Unconditionally.

As I love my children, as I love my brother and my sister.

There is nothing you could do that could make me love you less.

That's all I have for today...just one small word, but oh, so much. 

Living in Vienna: Lifting the House Arrest

We've really been out enjoying Vienna this week.  The last several weeks have been divided between waiting at home for deliveries and trying to stay out of the rain...which is silly when you think about how much the girls enjoy gallivanting in puddles. So, this week we've embraced the mercurial weather and tend to just leave the house with rain coats.  We've been getting a lot done and seeing more of the city.

Pausing to plan the next Shenanigan

We even met up with our friends to check out an Orangery near The Kagran U-Bahn station.  (We needed to get the kids out of the house but being able to seek immediate shelter was also a high priority)  As it turned out, our timing was perfect; the girls loved running through the rows of flowers and the winding paths through all kinds of trees and dense foliage.  There were even operating beehives and an outdoor wood burning oven...where Meg and I were contemplating coming to bake our own loaves of bread.  But, considering they booted us off the grass when we attempted to have a picnic, I think the stick-in-the-mud groundskeepers would frown on that. (I'm still confused about this, by the way, since we were only a few yards from picnic tables and there were public trash receptacles nearby.  I asked the lady if we could eat in the park and she said 'no'. She told me it was a 'closed park' and answered in the affirmative when I asked if we needed to leave.) Oh, Austrians, you never cease to confuse me. So in an act of rebellion, we wandered around for another good 45 minutes letting the girls run and scream, until the skies started threatening to open up in an absolute downpour.

Cantankerous gardeners ain't gonna get me down, but I know better than to be in an open field when lightening starts.  

Nine years since I last saw this lady

Luckily, it looks like we'll have a bit of a break from the crazy cyclical rainstorms; yesterday was one of the nicest days we've had in recent memory and I got to meet up with a friend from High School; a gal I haven't seen since I graduated. (which we both attributed to never being in Walmart at the same time...this is how people in small towns 'visit' each other).  Kim is married to another school mate of mine and they have recently moved to England.  Imagine our  mutual surprise when she went on a short tour of Europe and discovered we would be in the same place...about a million miles away from our small home town. She was traveling with a group of friends and we all met up for lunch at a place called Gasthaus Pfudl.  The food and the service were great and I cannot tell you how nice it was to be able to honestly catch up with someone I haven't seen in ages.  It probably helps that Kim is one of the most genuinely friendly people I know, but it was a fantastic lunch.

Afterwards, we all walked together to Stephansdom, which, from the outside looks like many a huge, towering Gothic monstrosity (particularly to people who have traveled across Europe). But I cannot tell you how giddy it made me to hear others confirm what I think every time I walk through it's doors. When the group walked into the cathedral and took a moment to gasp in awe, I just wanted to scream: "I know, Right?!?!"  I can only use so many words in an attempt to describe the place, but there is nothing like being able to stand in the colorful shadows of it's stained glass, to realize the depth of countless details...to smell the remnants of a million burnt candles.  There are cathedrals...and then there is Stephansdom.  I felt like a proud mother hen. 

And as I walked home (carrying both of my worn out girls) it sunk in: I LIVE here.  I'm fighting every day to be accepted by these people.  And I know why they're proud; they've got an amazing thing going here and not just anybody is allowed to take ownership of it.  This is the first time I've found myself desiring to be able to say I'm proud of where I'm living, but I'm destined to be a transient resident. At least I've got all that cake and coffee to console myself. 

Notes from The Dragon & Her Gunniwolf Sister

It occurred to me last week that I am the only one who really gets to hear about the highlights directly from Audrey and Bailey's Days; not even John is really privy to what we talk about before they go to sleep.  So, since so many of you are far away, I thought making a weekly habit of posting their journal entries might be a nice way to keep track of the girls: what their priorities are, the turns of phrase they so often use and basically how fantastically hysterical they can be.  Bear in mind, I only really expect a handful of people to genuinely appreciate it, but I figured this was as good a form of media as any.  (All stuff in parentheses is edited by yours truly)

Bailey's most common facial expression

May 31st
Bailey's favorite thing: Mama watchin' a movie!  I see my friends.  Terrence--that's my favorite.  Mama, I love bad guys. (Oy...where do I even start with that one)
Prayer: Thank you, this day. Watch over my friends. Watch over my goat.  Amen.
Audrey's favorite thing: Playing with my friends--having fun with them.
Thankful for: my cozy bed...mmhmmm.  It's very comfy.
Prayer: for your long hair, for my cute little Bailey

June 1st
Bailey's favorite thing: I playin' my Papa!
Thankful for: playin' my Audrey--playin' with her.
Prayer: for goin' with you in my jacket in the rain
Audrey's favorite thing: getting ice cream--seeing those guys with the hats playing (saxophone)

This girl loves flowers

Thankful for: myself--for me picking flowers
Prayer: Bailey--for playing with me

June 2nd
Bailey's favorite thing: watchin' a movie; Tinkerbell was special. Tinkerbell on my jammies.
Thankful for: Uncle Joe (She looks through her "Joe Book" every day)
Prayer: for Audrey
Audrey's favorite thing: playing with Bailey--coloring with her and playing with her.
Thankful for: Bailey said a crazy part--when we went on that train where we sit down. (I have no idea what this means)
Prayer: for fairies--about Tinkerbell that's on Bailey's jammies...and for Snowin' (That's the name Bailey gave her sheep...also occasionally called 'goat')

Sisters!

June 3rd
Bailey's favorite thing: Playin' my Papa
Thankful for: Audrey playin' with me.
Prayer: for my Papa
Audrey's favorite thing: Playing with my Dada.
Thankful for: my sister--coloring with her and coloring pictures for her
Prayer: for Audrey to make good choices--maybe I'll eat my dinner...when nap time is over. (Audrey insists that sleeping...even at night is referred to as 'napping')

June 4th
Bailey's favorite thing: Playin' my Papa
Thankful for: Audrey
Prayer: for Mama
Audrey's favorite thing: getting to play with Papa when he got home.
Thankful for: Bailey--for her picking flowers with me and about shiny shoes and about flowers that go on shoes.  And for your long hair.
Prayer: for Audrey picking flowers with Bailey

June 5th
Bailey's favorite thing: ummm....watch a movie....Playin' my Papa.
Thankful for: A bible story...read a bible story...Audrey read a bible story
Prayer: playin' a-Audrey
Audrey's favorite thing: Playing with my friends--running with my friends.
Thankful for: all of the fishes that go in the water and about your long hair.
Prayer: for all of the books.

I love this sweet child

So Happy Together; A Weekend Update

In answer to my usual nightly query today, both girls answered that their favorite thing was: "Playing with my Papa"...and that pretty much sums up our weekend.

The End!

I honestly have no idea what's going on here...but it looks epic

There's no way I'd let you get off that easy.  But, in all seriousness, our weekend has involved practically nothing but focusing on our little foursome and having a heck of a good time.  Early Saturday morning, as I was taking one of my showers where I get to use up all the hot water and not worry about what the girls are destructing while temporarily unsupervised, John organized what has become one of the most epic story lines involving every single toy the girls have in the house and also a wooden castle (accompanying royalty included) that he brought home as a surprise Friday night.

The 'fire prison' and recently raided food storage house...tragic

When we eventually pried ourselves away from Never Never Land, we were much later than we would've liked to have been out the door.  For once I was able to blame our tardiness on something other than myself--it wasn't because I was blow drying my hair for the first time that week, but because we could not drag our kids away from their incredible imaginary world. And why would we want to?  But, Papa needed new suits, so we persevered through a trip to the mall...and picked up the story line as soon as we were home again--The evil Mad Hatters must be stopped!

The Ankeruhr with Maria Theresa and Prince Eugene of Savoy

Sunday morning was basically a repeat of Saturday except we eventually managed to get out of the house for a walk.  I've been  wanting to see the Ankeruhr at noon since we got here and things just haven't worked out right until today.  The Ankeruhr is a clock that was built between 1911 and 1917 using plans from the artist Franz von Matsch.  The clock is actually situated on a bridge that connects the Anker Insurance buildings and, especially considering the construction and renovation going on around it, does not stand out at all.  I still couldn't help but be drawn in by the detail and charmed by the twelve figures who slowly progress across the face at noon to music representing different time periods in Vienna. While most people who had gathered started to drift away after two or three of the figures had passed, we stayed for the duration and I really enjoyed getting to sit and talk with the girls about every aspect of it--to see the Ankeruhr through the eyes of my littles.

Picnic at Stadtpark

After exploring some more, we settled on a picnic lunch in Stadtpark, where the girls collected pine cones and gawked at the giant coy fish in the pond.  We're still trying to keep our little monsters on a fairly consistent schedule, so after getting them settled back down at home for naps, I headed back out for my Sunday afternoon break.

This week my little adventure, in a word, was: different. I have been sticking close to home for the past two weeks and was really looking forward to some time to be able to walk on my own and explore without having to worry about anyone else's stomach, bowels or state of mental health. I took the U-Bahn to Karlsplatz, walked past the Opera toilet and up to the Staatsoper, where I began my journey.  In all of our exploring we haven't actually stepped foot yet in quite a few of Vienna's districts and I wanted to get a feel for some of them.  After walking past some old familiars, I headed straight up to the 9th district, and back down and around to the Ring through the 8th...and while that may sound like a brief or direct route in print, in actuality, I was bumming around for over an hour.  I didn't take a lot of pictures because I was content to just take it in without breaking out the camera, but it was nice to get out of my usual first district haunts and to stalk what basically felt like other people's neighborhoods...fabulous Viennese neighborhoods, albeit, but homey all the same.  

The Votivekirche

As I was rounding back on the Staatsoper, it started to rain and I've never been so thankful that Audrey always insists I carry 'her' umbrella in my bag, because what started out as drips and drops, in true Viennese fashion, was soon a total downpour.  I wasn't really ready to head back home yet, but I knew any cafe that I easily spotted in the first district would now be completely packed with tourists dodging the rain...so I settled on what was easy and familiar and relatively unknown to the teeming masses: Cafe Hawelka.

What took me by shock was that while I had been thinking ahead to where I was going, I wasn't fully prepared for where everyone else would be...or rather not.

 EVERYONE had abandoned the sidewalks and was seeking shelter under the nearest eve, cafe umbrella or awning.  No one was walking--even the people with umbrellas were standing back, waiting.  All these people previously flooding the streets, taking the same picture of themselves in front of the same *insert tourist attraction here* were now forced to stop and watch...namely: ME.  As I sauntered down a deserted Kartnerstrasse under my umbrella with a hundred pairs of eyes trained on me.  It was an eery flip for someone so used to spending her Sunday afternoons mimicking trees or blending in with the crowd.  And I couldn't help but laugh--to smile knowingly at our ice cream man as I passed his booth and to grin at all the people forced to do what I chose to do at least once a week: STOP...Watch..Take a break.   

Miraculously, I found plenty of free tables when I got to Cafe Hawelka and I sank comfortably into it's dimly-lit interior for the first time. It was also the first time I've felt I really earned my Sunday afternoon break; I could've drowned in my coffee and I had to restrain myself from inhaling my cake...which I didn't even pause to photograph. After I took a breath and a moment to think--having already aired all my my errant, miscellaneous thoughts during my walk--my mind turned to home. I missed my girls.  I knew they were probably starting to wake up from naps by then and I wanted to kiss their sleepy heads. I didn't want to sit and savor anything for one more minute, I wanted my babies.  

Sleepy girls...my absolute favorite

So just like that, I was off, and that's something that's new here too--when I leave the house for my little adventures, sooner or later I find myself really wanting to go back home.  I miss being with my girls even though we're spending more time together here than we did before we moved; we are living in each other's pockets and it's where we want to be.  That just makes my heart happy.  It was a good weekend, and no matter what it brings, this will be a good week because we have each other--it is my slice of joy to cling to.  What is yours?

Called to Communion

When life gets hectic or monotonous or frustrating, I find when I choose to take a mental break--to not allow my emotions (good or bad) steamroll me--I find some fragment of joy to lift me up.  Some of the memories clinging to my heartstrings this week happened when I knew I was not getting it right and others flowed smoothly in easy, overwhelming gladness.  I know, especially since we've moved to Vienna, that I've been seemingly hyped up on this joyful high.  But it's not Vienna--living here sure helps, but that's not the whole story. And I'm not actually constantly walking around with rainbows shooting out of my nether regions.  We are human.  We have trials and we struggle.  But the important thing is that we can pull ourselves out of our seeming problems and see the truth--that God is good--that He is faithful--that He has a plan greater than ourselves.  And mostly, we're just jazzed to be a part of it.

Even though I doubt I will ever be able to feel in a constant state of prayer, I still hear God  unmistakably--when my kids spontaneously show love and gratitude, when I hear the happy chorus of 'Papa! PAPA!!! Papa is home!!', when I decide to take a break from the frustration of cooking dinner with a whining kid attached to my leg and instead sit down on the floor of the kitchen to snuggle with my baby as long as she wants--it's then that I hear the song in my heart: God is good. 

Lately, I've been trying to focus more on how I worship outside of my role in a traditional church family.  I relish my moments of reflective solitude, but I feel God is leading me to explore an active worship of Him--how to sing His praises and hold Him in my heart as I go through the day. And in all this, I'm wondering what I should share--what I should share with my children, with my husband, with my friends and family and with my little ambiguous slice of internet on the blog.  I know for the present, my posts are intended to keep friends and family updated with our lives, but I've always written with the thought echoing in my mind that this is really for my children.  I want them to know their past--to know mine--and to know what we went through together from their Mama's honest perspective.

And my faith is honestly all there would be if you stripped my soul bare.

I'm not really sorry if I've lost anyone reading this, but I know while God is so intensely reforming my faith that it will feature prominently here as well. 

So, for anyone still left reading, I wanted to share a moment that has stuck with me--that has taken root in my soul.  I'm not sharing this because I'm proud of myself or because I think others should take note.  I'm sharing because I hope you will see Christ in my experiences, just as I have--that my life and every aspect of it will be a reflection of His awe-inspiring loving kindness.

Last night we took our traditional Friday night walk.  Not everything was perfect--we got stuck walking next to a group of American kids lamenting the city's 'most boring' sights and Bailey spilled chocolate ice cream all over me, but we did get to see our Vienna; to walk down her streets and to sit in the pews of Stephansdom--to listen to street performers and smell the horses patiently waiting to tour around the city.  When we got off our U-Bahn stop on the way home it was raining and the girls laughed hysterically as we ran all the way back to our apartment.  We dried off and put on jammies, talked about our favorite things and what we're thankful for.  We read a bible story about The Last Supper and as the girls were saying their prayers, my heart was silently whispering, begging for communion with God.  I bundled my girls in blankets and kissed them goodnight.  And as I walked through the rooms of our apartment, making sure everything was done for the night, I noticed a light on in the dining room.  As I walked in, I saw the table was bare, except for a single roll of bread left over from dinner and a half empty cup of wine...and I heard Him--He spoke to my heart.  Commune with Me.  So I did.  And it brought me to tears. 

As I look back through my week, I can see moments where He is calling to me, much in the same way: stop. focus. commune with me. 

I just pray I will hear.  And that my answer will unceasingly be: Yes.